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Looking for that perfect crag



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By robbo393
From Flagtown, AZ
Apr 3, 2012

Howdy MP,
I am looking for some advice regarding what this site refers to as Central/Southern AZ climbing crags. I work for an outdoors guiding company and I am fortunate enough to be able to organize my own trip next fall for a group of students. I am, as the title might suggest, "looking for that perfect crag". What I mean by this is that I am looking for a place where I can:

- House in the upwards of 12 (total max) people
- Have a decent variety of climbs (easy-mod/difficult)

I am very focused on LNT and prior to this trip ever happening will cover the topic with the participants. I have lots of experience guiding and will be taking all the steps necessary to make this trip fun and educational for those who are going. Ideally I'd like to be in central AZ area but depending on the spot will try and make the exception. Any advice on places to go would be fantastic. Thanks in advance for the help!


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By Jacob Jones
From oklazona
Apr 3, 2012

Lemmon/Cochise

Or Jacks, if you are looking for something less "traditional."


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By Dylan Weldin
From Durango, CO
Apr 3, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jade

Camp at the Isle of Ewe in cochise stronghold. I "guided" a trip for our college's climbing club here this past spring break and it was perfect. Days worth of single pitch sport climbing in walking distance (and earshot) of the camping (easy to set top ropes too), convenient access to the Sheepshead for multi-pitch if you want it, not too far from the backcountry crags up in the west stronghold (Whale dome, warpaint, etc.) and we were ALONE almost the whole week...


"Trad Rock" (a sport climbing destination) at sunset
"Trad Rock" (a sport climbing destination) at sunset
Submitted By: Dylan Weldin on Apr 3, 2012


sweet sonoran sunset
sweet sonoran sunset
Submitted By: Dylan Weldin on Apr 3, 2012


On the sheepshead ("Ewephoria")
On the sheepshead ("Ewephoria")
Submitted By: Dylan Weldin on Apr 3, 2012


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By Pat Mac
From Tempe
Apr 3, 2012
Jacks Canyon. Board.

Dude Central AZ has the Best Sport crag in the state. The Homestead. Only problem is that you need 4wd or high clearence( with good driver) to get out there.


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By RyanJ
From Tucson, Arizona
Apr 3, 2012

Pat Mac wrote:
Dude Central AZ has the Best Sport crag in the state. The Homestead. Only problem is that you need 4wd or high clearence( with good driver) to get out there.


Pat this is true, but look again at his post. The Homestead is far from conducive to guiding a large group of people new to climbing.

Other than that aspect, I whole-heartily agree that the Homestead carries that title.


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By robbo393
From Flagtown, AZ
Apr 4, 2012

Having climbed at the Homestead before, I can honestly agree with you. It is a super fun place and great climbs, however, I know that it wouldn't be suitable for the climbers I would be working with. Not to mention having the access to an appropriate vehicle will be difficult. Great input thus far, but I'm still looking for that perfect crag. Anyone know about Prescott area? Dells/Watson?


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By J. Snyder
Apr 4, 2012

Try looking into The Promise Land mountainproject.com/v/the-promised-land/105788095


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By smithb
From Flagstaff, Az
Apr 4, 2012

Sweet Rock, Trad Rock, Sheepshead, Isle of Ewe - Southern Arizona, Cochise Stronghold West

mountainproject.com/v/west-stronghold/107476315

Remote enough, short approaches, lots of camping, lots of climbs - trad, sport, single/multipitch, no 4x4 required.

Its a bit hot till october though...
And the snakes... mountainproject.com/v/west-stronghold/107476315


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By MacM
From Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Apr 4, 2012
3rd Day in JTree

If you are interested in Prescott/Dells then High Rappel Dell has quite a few semi-adventurous routes for the grades (Old School ratings), I highly recommend it though. Approach is about 7 mins from parking, not too sure about having enough moderate routes for 12 people to work at once however, HRD is mostly Trad.

Time Zone wall, at Watson Lake, has numerous easy routes that most Prescott beginner climbers go to. All routes have anchors at top and are bolted. Approach is about 18 mins from the boat dock entrance. 12-ish people can easily work the routes this area, the Arizona Mountaineering Club used to hold class(es) for climbing here.
I'm not sure about the "Housing situation" for you around Prescott. The White Spar campground is located right off the 89 and is just South of Downtown, and close to Groom Creek Bouldering. Watson Lake has a few sites as well.

The Promised Lands would most likely be your best bet for a Central AZ Area for everyone to camp and climb happily. Sport/Trad/TR, on Conglomerate. It has a slight backcountry feel to it as well. Side note: the directions in the comments with mile markers are basically spot on.

I think heading down to Cochise would be great for sure, and staying at the Isle of Ewe campground. Tons of fun for everyone to be had down there.

-Mac, PPG


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By RyanJames
Apr 4, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky

Cochise would be ideal. It's easy car camping; you can climb right next to your campspots. There is the opportunities for multipitch routes. The setting is AMAZING!!! The hiking is AMAZING (check out the rockfellow group!). Pretty much, Cochise is as classic as it gets.


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By robbo393
From Flagtown, AZ
Apr 5, 2012

Great input from everyone! Thank you all for the help. For sake of drive time, gas, and other misc. costs, I'm primarily looking at Prescott area despite the burning urge to just take the group down to Cochise for some of the best AZ has to offer. If anyone still has input, I am more than open to it!


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