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looking for "old guy, experienced " climber to perform knowledge dump...
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Oct 25, 2010
Me
Looking for an experienced, alive, trad climber to absorb some knowledge, techniques, do's/dont's, etc. from. Preferably while climbing (me following) some easier moderate (5.7 or less), multi-pitch routes along the front range. Maybe in eldo (Swanson's arete, or similar), or on Lumpy?

I am a competent belayer, solid sport leader up to low 5.10, and have led trad (a couple of multi-pitch routes) up to about 5.6. Just looking to pick up as much practical, on-rock info as I can before snow flies. I have a very random work scedule that gives me every other weekend off, along with multiple weekdays off. Anybody interested in dragging along the "new guy" in the near future? Maybe this wednesday, or next monday/tuesday?

Also, I am a home-brewer, so anyone willing to put up with me for a day or two will be compensated with a couple or three six packs!
Ryan A.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2010
6 points
Oct 26, 2010
At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but look...
I meet all the criteria. Alive. Old (not so old). Experienced (been climbing 39 years). Very trad. Still climbing pretty hard. Like beer. I could do a day this coming weekend. Eldo or Lumpy. PM me if interested. Ivan Rezucha
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 25, 2001
8,308 points
Oct 27, 2010
View from Malander's Passage
me2 and I'm in Fort Collins. Might be available this weekend too. Or we can arrange another time. You can post a private message to me. Joe Varela
Joined Mar 30, 2007
73 points
Oct 27, 2010
Old folks can be sketchy too... Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Oct 27, 2010
Alpine toothpick.
Kevin Landolt wrote:
Old folks can be sketchy too...

So true!!! I climb a lot with Jimmie Dunn. I really don't think of Jimmie as an, "old folk", but I now understand that that type of climber no longer exists. I wouldn't call it sketchy, more like bold beyond belief. I also spend quite of bit of time just hanging out with Jimmie, and love hearing all of the stories about the desert towers he FA'ed. I've never learned much from Jimmie about climbing other than how to REALLY run things out. Now that's the old school way of climbing, so be prepared for that.

Edit: I was bummed that there wasn't more info., and pictures of Jimmie in the new, "Desert Towers" book by Steve Crusher since he was a big part of that scene.
England
From ?
Joined Aug 26, 2008
281 points
Oct 27, 2010
I would vouch for Ivan although I've never met him. Just read some of his contributions....enough said. Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Joined Jul 7, 2004
47 points
Oct 28, 2010
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
I'm looking for a older, more experienced woman for.. or wait, never mind. erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
360 points
Oct 28, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Ivan rocks! I've only climbed with him once years ago, but it was memorable. I think he still has one of those professions where he is able to climb mid-week, thus his ongoing need to meet partners. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Oct 28, 2010
Climbed with Ivan a few times over the years (38 1/2) and there is no one I trust more. Period! Paul Rezucha
From Alameda
Joined Mar 24, 2003
1,877 points
Oct 28, 2010
Bocan
England wrote:
So true!!! I climb a lot with Jimmie Dunn. I really don't think of Jimmie as an, "old folk", but I now understand that that type of climber no longer exists. I wouldn't call it sketchy, more like bold beyond belief. I also spend quite of bit of time just hanging out with Jimmie, and love hearing all of the stories about the desert towers he FA'ed. I've never learned much from Jimmie about climbing other than how to REALLY run things out. Now that's the old school way of climbing, so be prepared for that. Edit: I was bummed that there wasn't more info., and pictures of Jimmie in the new, "Desert Towers" book by Steve Crusher since he was a big part of that scene.


Totally true. I "admire" Henry Barber, Jimmie, Layton, Royal etc. etc. but man they were BOLD!! I mean nothing but pitons and bongs, crappy ropes and harnesses and boots!! And they were climbing harder than me into unknown territory. It just amazes me of their mental capabilities.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 28, 2010
Mother #1 on the Nautilus at Vedauwoo. Rob is calm...
Well, I certainly meet the criterion of old. Iíve got kids that I believe are older than Ivan. Anyway, I live in Loveland and am mostly free on weekdays. Next Monday looks open. Iíll send you a PM. Instead of free beer, Iíll settle for your carrying more of the gear.

For the past couple of months Iíve been mostly climbing at Vedauwoo where some friends and I have developed an area:
Old Folks' Wall

Vedauwoo is a great place to learn trad climbing but itís started to get cold and windy there. Time to start going south again.

Cheers,
Rob.calm
rob.calm
From Loveland, Colorado
Joined May 2, 2002
606 points
Oct 28, 2010
Bocan
Saw you presentation at Neptune's Rob...I love the use of the "Log Bro". Classic. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 30, 2010
Me
Thanks for all the quick replies! More offers than my free time will allow in the next couple of weeks actually, but looking forward to meeting up with as many of you as I can... Ryan A.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2010
6 points
Oct 30, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
erikwellborn wrote:
I'm looking for a older, more experienced woman for.. or wait, never mind.

+1 Main goal for old climbers too, but then again we fail to admit we are old most of the time.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Oct 31, 2010
Sunrise front range ridge
beer? I like beer ? Clifford Mallory
From Casper WY
Joined Oct 31, 2010
35 points
Oct 31, 2010
Me
Clifford Mallory wrote:
beer?


Otherwise known as the nectar of the hardman gods.
Ryan A.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2010
6 points
Nov 1, 2010
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
caverryan wrote:
Otherwise known as the nectar of the hardman gods.


I was under the impression that only PBR and Schlitz were nectar of the hardman gods. Am I off?
Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Joined Mar 7, 2010
362 points
Nov 1, 2010
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
caverryan wrote:
Otherwise known as the nectar of the hardman gods.


Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
360 points
Nov 1, 2010
Roadtrip!
erikwellborn wrote:
Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..


Bourbon works as well.

I'll throw myself into the ring as well, I live in Fort Collins and have been climbing trad for about 2 and a half years now. Did a pretty decent bit of multi-pitch this summer up in Estes. Can climb 5.8 here, would like to start pushing that sooner or later. I'm free most weekends, but my weekdays are pretty busy, so if you have a free weekend and want to go up to Greyrock, Lumpy (if it's a good weather window), or down to Eldo, I'd be down. Same goes for anybody else out there, it's always good to have a good pool of partners in my opinion.

-Steve
ssimonson09
From Tacoma, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2010
10 points
Nov 2, 2010
Alpine toothpick.
erikwellborn wrote:
Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..

Nice!
England
From ?
Joined Aug 26, 2008
281 points
Nov 2, 2010
Me
erikwellborn wrote:
Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..


Excellent. Bottom-shelf margs (dried lemonade mix and tequila in a nalgene) do well in a pinch too...
Ryan A.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2010
6 points
Nov 2, 2010
Sunrise front range ridge
erikwellborn wrote:
Or, Top shelf margs and single-malt scotch. Depending upon the climb..

Dude looks like I registered a complaint I dont know what I was doing that was not my intension all I was trying to do was say yes it depends on the climb as to what if any thing one may enbibe. Sorry if I get the chance I owe you a glass of the good stuff.(SMS)
Clifford Mallory
From Casper WY
Joined Oct 31, 2010
35 points


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