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looking for offwidth in all the wrong places: Gallatin Canyon, MT



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By Tom Howes
From Bozeman, MT
May 22, 2012

Not that anybody really talks about MT climbing on here anyway... but I'm looking for some recommendations for off-width climbing in the Bozeman area.


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By Dobson
From Butte, MT
May 23, 2012

You could always come out this way. There are some good, fierce wide cracks in the batholith.

Phillip


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
May 23, 2012

I dont know of anything, but if you find anything i have access to wide gear, hit me up if you do


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
May 23, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Go to the Batholith.


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By Joe Manlove
May 23, 2012

A few that come to mind;

Diesel Driver - the classic sandbag
Orange Crack - the ow section is great, but only about 15ft
Mother's Day - fun, the first pitch is a bit vegatated
The Joker - scary and hard for the grade, a bit of ow, largely face and struggling
Pinnacle Crack- practice rock

Go to the batholith for lines of greater purity. Most of these are going to disappoint as the ow is just a part of a larger whole. They are all really good routes, just not really ow.


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By hj schmidt
May 23, 2012

Crack of Libido
Fists to wider through a roof


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
May 23, 2012

Joe Manlove wrote:
A few that come to mind; Diesel Driver - the classic sandbag Orange Crack - the ow section is great, but only about 15ft Mother's Day - fun, the first pitch is a bit vegatated The Joker - scary and hard for the grade, a bit of ow, largely face and struggling Pinnacle Crack- practice rock Go to the batholith for lines of greater purity. Most of these are going to disappoint as the ow is just a part of a larger whole. They are all really good routes, just not really ow.



I agree that they are all good routes having been up all of them, but no offwidth on any of them unfortunately.


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
May 23, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

Bud Martin wrote:
I agree that they are all good routes having been up all of them, but no offwidth on any of them unfortunately.



Agreed. I don't recall Crack of Libido having any offwidth either, but it's been 10 years.


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By Joe Manlove
May 24, 2012

Bud, they all had some off width when I did them. Well, the Joker doesn't really have crack so much as groove, but the others have at least a short section of ow crack.

Also, Pinnacle Crack is a 65ft crack that starts as 4.5's and goes to valley giants. Other than a lie back what else is it?


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By Tom Howes
From Bozeman, MT
May 24, 2012

Well, I've been on the Joker and Diesel Driver... d.d. has a short off width, the Joker just made me want to take a dump... Crack of Labido ruined me last weekend...no o.w., but plenty of hard jams in pods.

I think a trip to the batholith is necessary if I could just find somebody to show me around ;)


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
May 24, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Joe Manlove wrote:
Bud, they all had some off width when I did them. Well, the Joker doesn't really have crack so much as groove, but the others have at least a short section of ow crack. Also, Pinnacle Crack is a 65ft crack that starts as 4.5's and goes to valley giants. Other than a lie back what else is it?


Pinnacle Crack is a good suggestion, but an offwidth-sized crack doesn't necessarily mean the route has "offwidth" climbing on it. Joker-definitely not. Diesel Driver-easily bypassed by giant incut faceholds. Orange Crack- you offwidth for maybe 1 move. All great routes though.

But anyway... sounds like the OP knows where to go.


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By TomKingsbury
May 24, 2012
Spring 2005

Two that I've yet to tick, but would like to are:

Prime Rib, Gallatin Canyon

Croc's Nose, Hyalite

widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=441.0



There are also lots of OW in the Boulder Batholith as mentioned above...

Cheers,
Tom


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By Tom Howes
From Bozeman, MT
May 24, 2012

Croc's Nose looks great, thanks for posting.


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
May 24, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Awesome shot. Inspiring as always.


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By Tom Howes
From Bozeman, MT
May 29, 2012

I hiked up to Croc's Nose today, too bad it was raining and I couldn't get on it. I was curious if this is the same route listed in the Dockins guide as 9+... maybe it just looks harder to me cause I'm a wuss.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
May 29, 2012
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

is crocs nose that 3 pitch 10d on the gargoyle formation? tom, wait until august before going up to do that one, I need a partner for that when I get back and all my other friends in bozo are too smart to go climbing on the shit they call rock up in hyalite.


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
May 30, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Croc's Nose is on Croc Rock. Check out the photo above.


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By TomKingsbury
May 30, 2012
Spring 2005

Yeah, listed as .9+ in the Dockins guide...more like .12

Discrepancy due to the fact it was originally laybacked on TR, though not completely linked I think...so an estimate thrown out by hutch to get the info out there I believe....


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