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Looking for Crack Climbing Mentor

Original Post
Doug Smith · · Almo, ID · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 12

Hey all. Longtime climber looking to improve my crack climbing skills. Looking for someone willing to take me out on a variety of cracks. Give advice on techniques and just get out and get more mileage on cracks. I feel confident following in the .10 range but don't get the opportunity to follow skilled crack climbers very often. I live in Idaho Falls, but willing to travel to other locations. Ultimate goal is to feel confident enough to try most alpine 5.10s.

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

While I can't be a solid partner as I live in Salt Lake I suggest hanging out and/ or finding partners at City of Rocks. In my experience there are almost always people who are willing to lead belay or toprope people on most anything and there are plenty of great trad climbs in the 10 to 11 range. I'll travel up there myself a couple times before summer really starts, if you want to meet up PM me, I have an irregular work schedule. I can maybe meet up elsewhere in Southern Idaho but unless you're going to the Tetons the City is the best place to trad climb.

Top Rope Hero · · Was Estes Park, now homeless · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,150

Because what EVERYone wants to do, you know, is be someone's guide. WithOUT the pay or the prestige. Right.

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 121

If you've been to Idaho Falls you'd know that there's not a ton of rock guides waiting around to help lead people up anything around there. But maybe you've been there , I don't know. Seems like a legitimate question to me. If in doubt Doug Smith, maybe consult Exum guides? They can definitely teach you about alpine skills and guide you safely as possible in the Tetons, if you can't find a reliable alpine partner then that's probably the way to go.

justin harr · · moorcroft, wyoming · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

Don't mind the asshole from Testes, CO there. Sounds like a real tool, nice reply dumbass. Seems like there's definitely some climbers willing to help out and teach. Might look up Frank Sanders at Devils Tower Lodge, he's one of the best in the business and an amazing guy to hang out with. Good luck and I'd definitely stay out of the shithole Colorado is.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

The " prestige" of a guide?

Doug Smith · · Almo, ID · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 12

For clarification, I routinely climb at City of Rocks. I have many friends that I take climbing. Most are at or below my climbing level or focused on sport routes and none of my regular partners are skilled at hard crack climbing. I would like to find some people who are interested in climbing cracks. I can travel to SLC or Sawtooths or Tetons or Red Rocks... or?

Luke, thanks for the input about meeting climbers at CoR. I do that all the time when I want to climb and no one else's schedule matches mine. I met up with a visiting climber this week and climbed Wednesday. I do get down to SLC occasionally...its only 2.5 hour drive and would love to climb in LCC or anywhere else with interesting climbs. And yeah, Idaho Falls is jam packed with climbing guides... I'm not new to climbing, or to alpine routes...just want to get my skills back to where they used to be before taking a climbing hiatus.

Top Rope Dude...I take new climbers out climbing all the time. I'll teach them how to belay, how to build anchors, how to clip bolts and swap out tr anchors, how to move on the rock and how to place pro. I give them the opportunity to experience climbing outside of a climbing gym experience. I've taught climbing classes at the University level and I just love climbing. I'm sorry that you feel it's necessary to get paid to spread the joy of climbing to others. Good luck.

Justin, when I get out toward Devils Tower, I will definitely look him up. Thanks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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