Looking for Anchor Class

I have academic knowledge of building anchors. But I'd like take a dedicated anchor class before I risk life and limb. Can anybody recommend someone in the San Francisco area? I've found these so far:

outbackadventures.com/trips…

castlerockclimbingschool.co…

adventureout.com/rock-climb…

I don't see anything about these three being certified by the AMGA or the like, though. Does anybody have any experience?

And I don't want to have to travel to Tahoe or Sacramento or anything. I'm looking for Bay Area.

Thanks!

Try searching here:

amga.com/hire-a-guide/

Nathan Self wrote:Try searching here: amga.com/hire-a-guide/

Don't be misled. You don't need an AMGA guide to teach you how to build anchors any more than you need a certified chef to teach you how to make grilled cheese.

Save yourself a bunch of money. Find a local climbing club that offers classes. It'll be much cheaper. Sure the quality of instruction varies, but if you have any questions, verify everything they teach with a copy of Freedom of the Hills, and/or Rock climbing anchors and you should be fine. 90% of anchors is common sense anyway.

my two cents-

I've learned a ton from hiring AMGA guides over the years and view it as a very worthwhile investment. A lot less diligence is needed if you're learning from a certified guide- with a club you never know whether they are teaching you best practices, or best practices from 30 years ago. So if going that route I'd be sure to get comfortable with their reputation.

I have a copy of Rock Climbing Anchors, by Craig Luebben. But I'd like to get some actual instruction as well. And not from some dude who climbed one time. Anybody can claim they are an expert and charge a fee. I'm not looking for that. I want to make sure I'm learning from someone who knows what they're doing.

Nathan Self wrote:Try searching here: amga.com/hire-a-guide/

Yeah I tried that, but not showing anybody in my area.

That's why I posted the links in my OP... those are the three in my area.

Just trying to be helpful.

Did you see this:
meetup.com/mountaineering/m…

I just get tired of everytime someone asks for advice on learning something, the instant response is "go hire an AMGA - certified guide" As if no one ever learned anything before the AMGA came along.

I've taken and taught classes at a local climbing and I've taken classes from AMGA guides. They both can have their place. As to your situation here is what I'd say:

The club I taught with had a Toproping course that taught anchors. It cost $100 for 4 (3-4 hour)classroom sessions and 4 outdoor days (full days). You also got to meet 20 other students who were at the same level as you and were all looking for partners to go out on their own afterwards. There were a multitude of instructors and of course their skill level did vary but the course included a copy of one of the popular textbooks on anchors in case you needed to look something up. And with 4 classes and 4 outtings you get lots of time practicing with plenty of critique.

OR

You hire a guide for a day. Pay $200 or more for just one day worth of instruction. Sure the guide knows his stuff, but how much can he show you? and how much can you absorb in one day? And then aftwerwards you are on your own and you still need to go practice, preferably with someone elso who knows what they are doing to double check you.

In general I think taking classes with a club is the way to go. Easy way to find partners and if they go through the class with you then you know exactly what they have been taught. You also get to observe them during class, so you can tell if they are absorbing it or not.

Stagg54 wrote:I just get tired of everytime someone asks for advice on learning something, the instant response is "go hire an AMGA - certified guide" As if no one ever learned anything before the AMGA came along. I've taken and taught classes at a local climbing and I've taken classes from AMGA guides. They both can have their place. As to your situation here is what I'd say: The club I taught with had a Toproping course that taught anchors. It cost $100 for 4 (3-4 hour)classroom sessions and 4 outdoor days (full days). You also got to meet 20 other students who were at the same level as you and were all looking for partners to go out on their own afterwards. There were a multitude of instructors and of course their skill level did vary but the course included a copy of one of the popular textbooks on anchors in case you needed to look something up. And with 4 classes and 4 outtings you get lots of time practicing with plenty of critique. OR You hire a guide for a day. Pay $200 or more for just one day worth of instruction. Sure the guide knows his stuff, but how much can he show you? and how much can you absorb in one day? And then aftwerwards you are on your own and you still need to go practice, preferably with someone elso who knows what they are doing to double check you. In general I think taking classes with a club is the way to go. Easy way to find partners and if they go through the class with you then you know exactly what they have been taught. You also get to observe them during class, so you can tell if they are absorbing it or not.

I appreciate the perspective. So, where can I take a class for $100 with 4 (3- or 4-hour) classroom sessions and 4 outdoor days in the SF Bay Area? That sounds like a fantastic deal. 8 days? $100? With a quality instructor? And they provide all the gear? And a textbook? Sign me up.

Did you click the links in my OP? Those are the only three places I've found in my area. I asked at my local gyms and they couldn't recommend anybody. So those three are the ones I am considering...

Stagg:

Sorry I'm always saying that, I guess.

Sounded like 46&2 wanted expert instruction, didn't have a mentor, and didn't exactly trust the classes he'd found--but that doesn't mean AMGA is the way to go....

(Also, aren't you the "no whine" guy? Please don't let my simpleton advice offend you.)

Nathan Self wrote:Stagg: Sorry I'm always saying that, I guess. Sounded like 46&2 wanted expert instruction, didn't have a mentor, and didn't exactly trust the classes he'd found--but that doesn't mean AMGA is the way to go.... (Also, aren't you the "no whine" guy? Please don't let my simpleton advice offend you.)

Well it's not that I don't trust the three I found. I just don't know one way or the other. Should I just close my eyes and point at one and go with them? I was hoping to maybe find someone who had experience with one of them.

I was recommended another guide/club a while back and tried to contact them a number of times with no response. So here I am, still searching

Nathan Self wrote:Just trying to be helpful. Did you see this: meetup.com/mountaineering/m…

That is the person I've tried contacting numerous times over the last year. No response. Also, the next class they have listed isn't for another 3-4 months.

Looks like you're in the SF Bay area.

Have you tried Richard Bothwell at Outdoor Adventure Club?

I've heard good things about the classes he teaches in the bay area through meetup.

I think both PG and Touchstone have anchor classes, too.

Kent Richards wrote:Looks like you're in the SF Bay area. Have you tried Richard Bothwell at Outdoor Adventure Club? I've heard good things about the classes he teaches in the bay area through meetup. I think both PG and Touchstone have anchor classes, too.

See my last post. I've tried contacting him but can't get a response.

I climb at PG. They do not offer anchor classes.

I am a single pitch instructor through the amga and would be down to teach you the basics of anchor building.

Feel free to PM me.

i'd be down to put some anchors together sometime

Trevor Burke wrote:I am a single pitch instructor through the amga and would be down to teach you the basics of anchor building. Feel free to PM me.

Will do, thanks!

rei.com/events/artificial-r…

FrankPS wrote:https://www.rei.com/events/artificial-rock-climbing-anchors-class-level-2/paicines/132262

Are the REI classes any good?

FourT6and2 wrote: Are the REI classes any good?

Their description says they are partnered with the AMGA. I don't know how good the classes are, but I'm sure you'd learn something good. The REI-haters on this website might say otherwise.

I've never taken any REI classes before, but the price is right and the subject is what you want. This is something like what you're looking for, isn't it?

My 2 cents.

I've learned a lot by studying a variety of books, and I've also taken courses with guide firms. In both cases, the real learning came from building lots of anchors. Go to a good crag and walk around; now build anchors wherever possible. Some will be good, some will be marginal, but you will get the experience of building anchors with whatever gear you have and whatever the rock will allow. Find a friend and critique each others' anchors.

As in most things in life, we can seek instruction and guidance, but our best learning comes from experience.