Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Looking for a long crack climb in CO
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
inner chi

I am trying to find a long multi pitch crack climb for free rope/aid rope soloing in Colorado. I live in CO springs, so preferebly something not to far from me. Trying to find something well protected that could be aided for a few pitches. Please hit me up with any recommendation you may have.
Cheers


FLAG
By Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Feb 11, 2013
On Blanca after traversing from LB

Right in your own back yard! This is one of the best aid pitches around the Front Range...

www.mountainproject.com/v/triple-exposure/105752932


FLAG
By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Feb 11, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 <br />Photo by Ken Trout

There's long splitters on Pike's Peak. Check out Arching Jams on the Pericle.


FLAG
By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
inner chi

Brian ~ I have actually already aid rope soloed triple exposure. It was fun, not as sketchy as everyone was making it out to be.

Kirk ~ I have seen this face when driving up Pikes. But I can not find any beta on it. If you have any info I would greatly appreciate if you could send me a pm with info. Thanks!


FLAG
By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Also in the Garden areAnaconda
and Kor's Corner. These both get clean aided pretty regularly.

If you take Anaconda to the top be careful the top two pitches don't get climbed very often maybe since I did it. When I rope soloed it I knocked down some loose flakes. Getting down is a beast as well. The East Face raps are really hard to pull. Kor's Corner is much easier to get down from. You can either do the last pitch of West Point and walk off or do a double rope rap from the top of Kor's. You could aid West Point as well this time of year but it's a pretty easy free climb for the crack portions.

If you wanted to go farther you could always head to Turkey or other places around the Splatte. If Eleven Mile Canyon is open again the Teale Tower route is technically two pitches and all crack. Have fun.


FLAG
By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
inner chi

Jmeizis~ I have aid roped soloed Anaconda, that was pretty good. Thanks for the recommendation on Teale Tower, that looks fun. I have added Kor's Corner and Teale to the todo list.


FLAG
By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Well depending on how far you're willing to go you could head up to Eldo and Boulder there are lots of options. Rincon
is a pretty good one just off the top of my head. You could aid Country Club Crack although I've not aided it I'm pretty sure it'd be a good one. If you want to get stuff longer than that you're going to have to head to Zion this time of year.


FLAG
By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
inner chi

Jmeizis~ Country club crack looks like a pretty solid route. It has been added to the list. Although I could not find out what you meant by Rincon. I looked it up and it seems to be a whole area in Eldo?


FLAG
By Monty
From Golden, CO
Feb 11, 2013
Just a teaser

Center route on Cynical Pinnacle


FLAG
By Hamlet73
From Boulder, CO
Feb 11, 2013
pic taken in J-tree

Ryan Chelstowski wrote:
Jmeizis~ Country club crack looks like a pretty solid route. It has been added to the list. Although I could not find out what you meant by Rincon. I looked it up and it seems to be a whole area in Eldo?


Rincon is both an area and a route, this one specifically.
mountainproject.com/v/rincon/105748942

It is a great corner and could be aided reasonably.

Have fun.
Simone.


FLAG
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Feb 11, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Monty wrote:
Center route on Cynical Pinnacle

When that is open, it is crowded, and I would not recommend creating a user conflict by aiding it, which is pretty time consuming.


FLAG
By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

I would say that's the case with a lot of these routes since they're free climbs. I think being reasonable with when you go and being generous to free climbing parties can make this not such a big deal but if I was going to go to Cynical Pinnacle I'd aid Wunsch's Dihedral.

I think if you're aiding any free route that gets reasonable traffic you have to realize you're in the way and be cool with letting someone pass you or start ahead, etc.


FLAG
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Feb 11, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Totally agreed with the above. I was thinking though that some free climbs are more crowded than others, and some with parties with more experience and ability to pass other parties hassle free. The parties on Center Route might be less able to deal with complications free of trouble than the parties on Wunch's, Rincon, and County Club, which are all 5.11 harder...


FLAG
By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Feb 11, 2013

jmeizis wrote:
I would say that's the case with a lot of these routes since they're free climbs. I think being reasonable with when you go and being generous to free climbing parties can make this not such a big deal but if I was going to go to Cynical Pinnacle I'd aid Wunsch's Dihedral. I think if you're aiding any free route that gets reasonable traffic you have to realize you're in the way and be cool with letting someone pass you or start ahead, etc.


Additional note: if aiding (clean aid, of course) a popular free route, perhaps it might be wise to go on a weekday to avoid the ire of parties wishing to free climb the route, while you spend hours dangling off of daisy chains.

There have been a lot of suggestions for routes that are pretty far north for you (Eldo, Cynical Pinnacle, etc). There probably isn't any need to go this far north; there are plenty of aidable cracks in the southern parts of the Platte. A selection. of the harder cracks at Turkey Rocks would keep you busy for a while.


FLAG
By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Fair point, fair point.


FLAG
By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2013
inner chi

Monty~ Center route looks awesome, added.

As far as climbing on well traveled routes...I mainly will attempt a rope solo on a popular route in the winter when it is cold and no one is out free climbing in the single digits or teens. I prefer to climb in times and places when no one wants to get out, I like the solitude.


FLAG
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

In that case Ryan, you have 2 weeks to climb it. It is closed 3/1 .


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.