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Longstack Precipice

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Big Wall, The 
Indigenous Wall 
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Longstack Precipice  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.5435, -71.1723 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,123
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Forecast:
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Zackary and MacKenzie looking at whats ahead on De...

Description 

Longstack Precipice (aka Blueberry Ledges) offers some of the tallest climbing in southern New Hampshire. The routes range from 35-170’ and provide amazing views of Knights Pond and Lake Winnipesaukee. Two old pins were found on the cliff providing evidence of previous climbers. Loran Smith also did a dozen adventurous climbs on nuts and hexes in 1978-1979 while attending the local Kingswood Regional High School. The cliff had a few new lines pop up around 2008, but major development started in 2011. A standard rack to a #3 or #4 will get you up all the climbs.

Getting There 

From route 28 in Alton take Rines Road. Drive down Rines Road for 1.1 miles until the road comes to a fork and turns to dirt. Stay left at the fork and follow the dirt road for roughly a mile. You will pass two gates on the left. After the second gate (sand pit) there will be a pull off on the left and another small sand pit with a shooting range just beyond it. Park here or any of the other pull offs. Walk behind the shooting range and follow the logging road and cairns to a climbers trail which will lead you to the base of the cliff. There are many ways to approach the cliff depending on where you park. The approach is approx. 20-30 minutes.

Option 2: in the summer the first brown gate on the left for Knights Pond Conservation area will be open. Drive to the end and park in the parking lot. Walk right through a break in the wall on an atv trail and follow it right to the main logging road and approach trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

68 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',10],['5.8',18],['5.9',13],['5.10',18],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Longstack Precipice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Longstack Precipice :
Coyote Rain   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Wonderland Wall
Islands   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Indigenous Wall
Toltec Dream   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 95'   Indigenous Wall
Raven Song   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Indigenous Wall
Tardis   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 65'   Indigenous Wall
Suicide Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Indigenous Wall
The Wayback Machine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   Indigenous Wall
The Arete   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Big Wall
Layback Route   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   The Big Wall
Trifecta   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Wonderland Wall
Way of the Peaceful Warrior   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 95'   Indigenous Wall
Earth and Sky   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indigenous Wall
Strychnine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Indigenous Wall
Winter Classic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   Wonderland Wall
Wonderland   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Wonderland Wall
Rampage   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   The Big Wall
Gold Lion   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   Wonderland Wall
Wet Lichen Dreams   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   The Big Wall
She's Out of Reach   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 90'   The Big Wall
Gentle Violence   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 65'   Wonderland Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Longstack Precipice

Featured Route For Longstack Precipice
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Garlough gets ready to fire the roof on Coyote...

Coyote Rain 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NH : Lakes Region : ... : Wonderland Wall
Takes a surprisingly easy line directly through the center of the large roof feature on the far right of the cliff. Should become a popular beginner route as it is now thoroughly cleaned, has great protection, and exciting moves on big holds.P1: From the beech tree at the start of Rona's Roof, face climb straight up (fixed pin on left) then passing climbers right of a small tree, then directly up to a stance under the large roof. Place pro and fire over the roof on huge holds to an easy, brok...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Longstack Precipice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The sunsets here are worth staying out late for.
The sunsets here are worth staying out late for.
Rock Climbing Photo: I did my first climbs on Longstack, or "Blueb...
I did my first climbs on Longstack, or "Blueb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall 2014 View
Fall 2014 View
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Garlough doing some late Winter scrubbing of a...
Jon Garlough doing some late Winter scrubbing of a...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Mount Washington cruise ship from the cliff, i...
The Mount Washington cruise ship from the cliff, i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset from the top of Longstack Precipice.  Lake ...
Sunset from the top of Longstack Precipice. Lake ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just at the knole, what a veiw of the cliff. Jonny...
Just at the knole, what a veiw of the cliff. Jonny...
Rock Climbing Photo: Longstack and the logging road approach
Longstack and the logging road approach
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the sun set on one of the climb using the ...
This is the sun set on one of the climb using the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A late winter venture out to Longstack
A late winter venture out to Longstack
Rock Climbing Photo: Waiting for Chinos to clip the first piece.  Photo...
Waiting for Chinos to clip the first piece. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: There's something not right with those Chino boys
There's something not right with those Chino boys
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the approach trail
View from the approach trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon (Chinos) at the belay ledge atop "Spirit ...
Jon (Chinos) at the belay ledge atop "Spirit ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Lake Winnipesaukee and Knights Pond from t...
View of Lake Winnipesaukee and Knights Pond from t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua Corbett scrubbing a new line on the Indigen...
Joshua Corbett scrubbing a new line on the Indigen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Longstack
Longstack
Rock Climbing Photo: Chino atop with some of the Indigeous wall and the...
Chino atop with some of the Indigeous wall and the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost there
Almost there

Comments on Longstack Precipice Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 2, 2016
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Jun 12, 2012
Well the secrets out, this is the best cliff in southern New Hampshire!
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 13, 2012
Thanks for the work guys. Nice to see quinny's name out there.
By chinos
Jun 13, 2012
Hell yeah! Hope to see you out there again
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jun 13, 2012
Jon, nice work posting all of these routes. You guys should also be commended for all of the trail work and for reinvigorating this semi-forgotten crag! Like Joshua said, this may be the premier intermediate level cliff in southern NH.
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Jun 13, 2012
From new routes to trail work, thats what the chinos mountain club is all about.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 14, 2012
I just went through all the descriptions and photos to approve them and i must give you guys my thanks for organizing such a large area in an easy to follow, understandable way. Splitting it up in sections is key and it saves me work in the long run. keep up the good work guys!
By chinos
Jun 15, 2012
Thanks Lee! I have spent a lot of time working on my book for the area. It makes it fast and easy to post on MP! I'm glad it helps you out, and more importantly it is easy to follow. Hope to see you in the area sometime...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 15, 2012
Do you plan on publishing a book for the New Durham Area?
By chinos
Jun 18, 2012
I'm trying to finish up and get some copies made up sometime next month. I can contact you when there done if you are interested.
By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012
A few notes on Longstack.

The area is still cleaning up, don't be alarmed by sandy or dirty patches. Every route is star worthy, there isn't a bad line here.

This area is not typical of other New Hampshire crags. The climbing is technical, cruxes are short. Expect shallow roofs, mantle problems, friction sequences, and some spice on every route (the gear isn't always where you want it). You must be a well versed climber to be successful here. Cams tend to be better than stoppers. Most climbs are a mix of bolts and gear.

You can get up and down almost everything with a 60 M rope. It is possible to walk off to either side. If walking off is your intent, the walk off to climber's left is preferable and it is best to scope this out before leaving the ground as the slight gulley isn't marked or easily recognized from the top.

Developing this crag was an extensive effort. Props to the Chinos crew, thank you for your good routes and awesome trail work.

P.S., if you're climbing at Longstack and run into a dude drinking a tall-boy at 8 a.m., you've just met the infamous Jon Garlough, first ascentionist (and sandbagger) extraordinaire!
By stephen arsenault
Nov 4, 2012
I predict Longstack will become VERY popular in time.

The routes are really fun and the place, in many ways, reminds me of the Gunks!

Those guys worked real hard to develop this place!
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Nov 10, 2012
As of today, November 10, the road into the Knights Pond Conservation Area is gated closed. To approach the crag, drive further up the road and either park in the pull-out just before the gravel pit, or enter the pit and park at will. Beware of other people using the pit as a shooting range, particularly when leaving and you sneak up on them from behind the mounded gravel that they are shooting into.
By chris magness
Jan 8, 2013
By climbing the more moderate Chenoo, it is possible to access the second pitch of all the routes on the Central Wall where the climbing is fun, exposed, and easier than the pitches turning the roof that comprises the first pitch of all the Central Wall long routes.

As all routes have fixed top and midpoint anchors, simply rap to climber's right, climb up and repeat. The process is fairly quick and can be completed with 1 60 M rope and allows for a good deal of climbing.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Feb 24, 2013
Nice new names Jon, Loran was right they sound a lot better
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Mar 8, 2013
Actually, I like the name "The Indigenous Wall" for the left end which works on many levels. From Wikipedia: "The adjective indigenous is derived from the Latin etymology meaning "native" or "born within". According to its meaning in English, any given people, ethnic group or community may be described as indigenous in reference to some particular region or location to which they trace their traditional tribal land claim."
By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Apr 28, 2013
Mad props to the developers. We were out there today (no climbing, someone forgot their harness) and I was quite impressed by the well-marked trail, nice trail work, etc. Navigation is easy, if you're at all confused, just wander around the shooting range until you see a bunch of cairns (rock piles) and follow those.

Anyone know who owns the land out there?
By chinos
May 11, 2013
the land is open to recreation use and the land owner was happy with the respect climbers had for the land. keep it clean and it will stay open!
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
May 13, 2013
Just a little note if you are planning to come here and it rained the night before or that morning don't be worried, I was out there yesterday and it stopped raining at 8:00am and everything was dry at 10:00am. It drys very quickly.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Jul 25, 2013
Someone left a pair of sneakers on top of Cyote Rain if you are looking for them I forgot to grab them so they are still there
By Rob Albert
Aug 5, 2013
We met Joshua out there this weekend. Thanks so much for showing/ telling us which routes were which! Longstack is so good that we spent both days there, and there is still plenty to do! Thanks to everyone for the development! If you climb ~5.10, this is a great place to go! Two notes: 1) you may want to bring a wire brush to clean some of the routes, as some are dirty/ lichen-y; 2) it was raining on the way to the cliff on Saturday morning, but everything was pretty dry about an hour after it stopped, so I can confirm that it dries VERY quickly!
By Jay LeSage
From: Sandown, NH
Oct 7, 2013
Has anyone tried to access the cliff from the trails on the northeast via Alpine Meadows Rd. Is it worth Trying? Gated? access issues of any kind?
By chinos
Oct 7, 2013
Jay, Alpine Meadows is a private community and it is best to not stir the pot by parking in there. Please park in the areas i have listed in the longstack write up.
Thanks
By Jay Martin
Oct 13, 2014
The anchor on Coyote Rain's first pitch is weathered. It appears animals have been chewing the spectra cordelettes. There is no tail left. I had no webbing or cord to replace unfortunately.
By ChrisN
Apr 25, 2015
This is such a great addition to New Hampshire climbing. Much respect to those who developed the area, placed bolts and added rap anchors. If there is anything we can do to assist with the upkeep of the area - let us know.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Aug 3, 2015
Would any of the routes here be suitable for setting up a top rope? I will be vacationing there in a few weeks on Rust Pond and am interested in checking it out, but without a climbing partner who can belay for lead, my only option is to top rope.
By Booker Bense
5 days ago
If you want more info on the early history of climbing at "Blueberry Ledges", Jeb Bradley might have some information. He introduced me to the area.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeb_Brad...

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