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Longs/Meeker/Martha condtions
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May 8, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
There is a LOT of snow up in the Longs cirque right now - about 8-12" on top of an old 4ish" thick melt-freeze crust on high altitude S. facing slopes. Good news is that there's a pretty much straight-line trail on packed snow from treeline to Chasm Junction (base of MLW East Ridge). Bad news is it looks like routes like Dreamweaver, The Notch/Kieners, etc. are at least couple of weeks away and maybe more. No ice visible on DW or Flying Dutchman, two body-length sections of ice on Martha. Chasm Lake is still frozen with about 8" of snow on top. I wouldn't do anything north-facing for a while and Martha would have been dicey avy-wise if it was warmer or sunnier (cold/cloudy today after about 11AM with snow and major clouds starting around noon or 1). I'd be very surprised if there is any ice (rather than deep snow)on other S-facing slopes right now, but I could be wrong - post-up if you went for a walk today!

See photos below...

Rock Climbing Photo: Long's/Meeker 5-8-10.
Long's/Meeker 5-8-10.


Rock Climbing Photo: Dreamweaver, 5-8-10.
Dreamweaver, 5-8-10.


Rock Climbing Photo: Martha, 5-8-10.
Martha, 5-8-10.


Rock Climbing Photo: East Face, 5-8-10.
East Face, 5-8-10.


Rock Climbing Photo: Lamb's Slide and Flying Dutchman, 5-8-10.
Lamb's Slide and Flying Dutchman, 5-8-10.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
May 9, 2010
Thanks for the beta Kevin. A friend and I skied up to Arrowhead and climbed the Hourglass Couloir (N. Facing) yesterday. We were groveling in style! Lots of physical snow wallowing and drytooling. The only ice we found was on the 3rd pitch chimney, which was a lot of fun. I was psyched to have my skis with me for the approach and descent.



Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead.



Ryan swimming up to our first belay.



Looking down the easy snow from above the first pitch - which was definately the crux in it's current shape. It involves climbing over three significant chockstones.



2nd Pitch



Above the chimney.



Swimming up the final pitches.
Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
May 9, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG, I winz!!!
Thanks for the beta boys. Ran up Dead Dog this morning, hope to get to the park early in the week.

EDIT: Dead Dog was good, not totally consolidated but stable early. Wet slides were starting by 10am. Be wary driving up the road in the AM, make sure you can get down in the afternoon. There is one *stuck* FJ up there.
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
May 9, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Kevin L., thanks for the beta! That one is definitely on my list. I feared we would find the conditions you did, plus my friend from NM didn't bring his skis, so we picked the more accessible Martha. "Arduous" is how my fried described our route in current conditions.

Good on you guys for getting after the Hourglass!

Also thanks for the info on DD Chris!

One more pic, the second ice step on Martha, first one is similar, maybe a bit shorter...


Rock Climbing Photo: Step 2 on Martha
Step 2 on Martha
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
May 10, 2010
Kevin, thanks for the post...however I can't imagine skiing up or down those steep, thick glades that rise out of glacier gorge up to shelf lake. I have done this approach a handful of times in both summer and winter and it seems like there are a ton of obstacles and some routefinding. How did you manage? Mitch Musci
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Apr 8, 2002
889 points
May 10, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: J TREE
We watched an avalanche cascade down The Notch for a good 30 seconds yesterday, just kept flowing down the route and over the lower flanks of Longs........

There were 2 guys going to try Kieners, but we don't think they even got up Lambs Slide.

AND MORE snow is on the way........2 feet of spring wetness coming our way......

Yes it is still like winter up there......

We dug a test pit for fun, and found some scary stuff...

Rock Climbing Photo: Long's.
Long's.




Rock Climbing Photo: Long's/Loft/Meeker.
Long's/Loft/Meeker.
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
933 points
May 10, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
Great pictures of Hourglass. You should post those in the route database for future reference. Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,661 points
May 10, 2010
I climbed Martha on Saturday and will vouch for there being a ton of unconsolidated snow right now. The ice that is there is ok but the route had a constant flow of spindrift and that added a bit of challenge to the conditions. I got off the route early before the sun really got into the gully and it was still cold. Sun and warmer temps might make the whole thing sketchy right now. MarkC
Joined Jan 20, 2006
1 points
May 10, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing p1
MarkC wrote:
I climbed Martha on Saturday and will vouch for there being a ton of unconsolidated snow right now. The ice that is there is ok but the route had a constant flow of spindrift and that added a bit of challenge to the conditions. I got off the route early before the sun really got into the gully and it was still cold. Sun and warmer temps might make the whole thing sketchy right now.


Yepper, we climbed it on Sunday, and found a steep snow climb with 2 ices steps and a minor ice/snow constriction. We were easily able to solo up to the last ice step. The slope above the climb was indeed warming up and getting sketchy in terms of avy potential. Spindriftorama. Start early.
Rock Climbing Photo: Frosty enjoying the spindrift whilst cruising Mart...
Frosty enjoying the spindrift whilst cruising Martha.
Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Joined Mar 30, 2005
2,891 points
May 10, 2010
Ha! Great pic!

Chris, I'll upload that photo of Hourglass Couloir to the route's beta page tonight.

Looks like a lot of folks had a great weekend in the Park! Another couple of feet expected to fall this week. Jeeze.
Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
May 10, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing
climbed Martha today, it was in great shape with lots of ice on the crux steps. The snow was in good shape as well, minimal post-holeing. We got to the summit just before a white out blew in that made the descent a little heads up.


Rock Climbing Photo: Jes on Martha.
Jes on Martha.



also - to the right of Martha is this thing...


Rock Climbing Photo: New line?
New line?


get after it!
Buster Jesik
Joined Jul 11, 2006
427 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Beer Project - Official MP Logo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first step (start of pitch 4?) on Martha.
The first step (start of pitch 4?) on Martha.

We went on Wed the 5th. We had gusts up to 60mph at dawn but once we were there, the winds settled down. If anyone finds that Tibloc, Tom would probably like to have it back, thanks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out. What a view!
Topping out. What a view!
J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2006
308 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: J TREE
Thanks for the laugh........

Finding a Tibloc up there..........

WOW >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
933 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Beer Project - Official MP Logo
Should jump out at ya ;) J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2006
308 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG, I winz!!!
Probably should go in ice conditions but FYI, lincoln falls is still fatty fat fat. Nothing harder than 3+/4- to be found but lots of good condition ice still. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the many that we saw come off near The Notc...
One of the many that we saw come off near The Notch Sunday May 9th.


It's gonna be awhile before any lost gear surfaces I think... lots of snow... and more tonight with a potential 2 foot dump coming!

Be safe up there!
Frosty Weller
From Colorado
Joined Mar 24, 2004
1,124 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Hulk
Buster,

I can't tell from your pic how long that "new" line is next to Martha. Any idea?
Ryan Malarky
From Denver, CO
Joined Jan 26, 2006
89 points
May 11, 2010
Chris Sheridan wrote:
Great pictures of Hourglass. You should post those in the route database for future reference.


Kevin, if you repost those photos, be sure to post the route-line shot so it will blow up a bit larger. If I'm not mistaken, it's showing the line of Sister Sweetly, a harder route to the right of Hourglass that's rarely (almost never) climbed. Maybe this is the year?

And, as someone else asked, did you really ski up and down the headwall below Lake Solitude? Steep! I've been up in that cirque twice in spring and thought the approach/descent of that headwall was the most dangerous part of the day. Wet snow over granite slabs. Yuck.
Dougald MacDonald
Joined Apr 13, 2002
899 points
May 11, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Hulk
Kevin and I did skin up that headwall. We found mostly super-firm conditions on way up, with some powder in the trees. Kudos goes to Kevin for setting as fine a skin track as possible. Way steep skinning in some spots. On the way out, what we hoped was going to be powder turns had become grabby breakable crust, but still much faster than booting it. Ryan Malarky
From Denver, CO
Joined Jan 26, 2006
89 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Bandera
We had hoped to try a trip up there this coming weekend. So how much more fresh stuff did Tuesday's system add to the high country? How's it look like it's gonna bond to the existing snowpack?

Lumpy and Eldo rock are probably also wet now?
thx
Chris Wenker
From Santa Fe
Joined Dec 21, 2007
2,070 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Glacier Basin Webcam at 11:33am
Glacier Basin Webcam at 11:33am

This was showing bare ground yesterday... you can pretty much assume that there is more accumulation at the higher elevations, and it looks to be continuing.
Frosty Weller
From Colorado
Joined Mar 24, 2004
1,124 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Casual Route Pitch 3  Photo by Mark Cushman
Chris Wenker wrote:
We had hoped to try a trip up there this coming weekend. So how much more fresh stuff did Tuesday's system add to the high country? How's it look like it's gonna bond to the existing snowpack? Lumpy and Eldo rock are probably also wet now? thx



We didn't get it to hard at my place. (ten minutes from eldo.) Unless the storm picks up again it will be climbable by weekend. I plan on climbing.

-Jon
cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 24, 2008
110 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
Dougald MacDonald wrote:
If I'm not mistaken, it's showing the line of Sister Sweetly


You read my mind, Dougald. I'm just hoping its still in when I get back in town on the 29th.
Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,661 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: just teasin' the sharks...
Is it Diamond season yet...? Dusty
From Fort Collins
Joined Apr 28, 2008
260 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG, I winz!!!
Chris Sheridan wrote:
You read my mind, Dougald. I'm just hoping its still in when I get back in town on the 29th.


Is that the line to the far right of Kevin's picture?
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
May 12, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
Chris Plesko wrote:
Is that the line to the far right of Kevin's picture?


I think so, but I've never climbed it. I looked for it years ago and even while looking at the face couldn't say I knew for sure where Sister Sweetly went. Like may routes, you might not know until you actually start up the thing. Here's my best guess drawn in on Kevin's photo.

Rock Climbing Photo: Likely route of Sister Sweetly.
Likely route of Sister Sweetly.
Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,661 points


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