Longs Lies  5.9+ A0-1

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9+ A0-1 [details] FA:  Tyler Phillips, Pete VanSlooten, Nate Williams, Tyler McConville 4/06 New Route:  Yes Season:  any but dead of summer Submitted By:  Orphaned on Jun 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

P1. Start up the very cool looking cracks using the big patina's for holds until you reach a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet. 5.9

P2.From big stance climb up and right. Climb up the obvious sweet finger crack. 5.9+ 50 feet

P3 Bring some nuts or cable swages for tying off BOMBER (as of 4/06;) ) bolts to the window,climb through the window onto terra-firma and a 2 bolt belay. this pitch might be freeable? A0. 40 feet

It is possible to combine 2 and 3.

Location 

This route lies about 600 yards north from the tourist slot canyon. There is a sign in spring posted that climbing beyond this point is illegal due to Peregrine Falcons. Look for the obvious window up high on the formation

2 double rope raps get you back down. Replacement slings for rap stations might be nice.

Protection 

Doubles on everything #1 metolius to #4 camalot. Slings very helpful, maybe some eiters for the aid.