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Longest rock climb in the world?
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Jul 22, 2008
We're having a debate over dinner, and wondered if you all can settle it.

What's the longest rock climb in the world? We're curious about rock, not mixed or alpine, although alpine rock certainly counts.

Could be measured either in pitches or in vertical gain.

Any ideas?

Cheers,
Jeff
Jeff Woodward
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 25, 2007
82 points
Jul 22, 2008
I was just reading about this today and I think this counts. Azeem ridge on the great trango tower. Travis Larsen
From Ogden, UT
Joined Sep 6, 2006
19 points
Jul 22, 2008
This might be a contender:
The Calanques near Cassis...Perhaps most challenging is the Castelvieil, with its series of four transversal routes. Its total length of 8,200 feet (2,500 meters) makes it one of the longest rock-face routes in the world.
away.com/tripideas/cassis-prov...
joe q fed up
Joined May 18, 2007
2 points
Jul 22, 2008
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
It would be more impressive if the route didn't traverse so much. Straightest line to the top. It should more or less avoid ice and snow, too. And, points if the route is free climbable. Any free routes on Mt. Thor in Baffin Island? ;-)

I would guess it would have to be on a low altitude peak. How many pitches do some of the routes on the right hand side of the Eiger go at?
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Jul 22, 2008
Hand Jive
Here is some pretty amazing info on the Azeem ridge on the great trango towers...

[edit] Recent ascents
Some of the more recent ascents on Great Trango have focused on the longer routes found on the west and south sides. In particular, in 2004 Josh Wharton and Kelly Cordes completed a new, very long (2,256 metre/7,400 ft) route on the Southwest Ridge, or Azeem Ridge, to the Southwest Summit. Though not as extremely technical as the East Face routes, the climb was notable for the extremely lightweight and fast (5 days) style in which it was done.[3]

Over 7 days in August 2005, two Slovak climbers, Gabo Cmarik and Jozef Kopold, climbed a new route, which they termed Assalam Alaikum, to the right of the Wharton/Cordes line on the south face of Great Trango. The climb comprised around 90 pitches, up to 5.11d A2. They used a lightweight style similar to that of Wharton and Cordes.[4]

In the same month, Samuel Johnson, Jonathon Clearwater and Jeremy Frimer made the first ascent of the southwest ridge of Trango II, which they termed Severance Ridge. The route involved 1,600 m of climbing over five days, with rock climbing up to 5.11 A2 and ice and mixed climbing up to AI3 M5.[5]

Also in August 2005, a South African team, composed of Peter Lazarus, Marianne Pretorius, James Pitman and Andreas Kiefer, climbed to the summit via the Slovenian route. Pretorius was the third woman to reach the summit.[6]

If you want to read more go to this link:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trango_T...
Shaun Greene
From www.UtahShaun.com
Joined Feb 23, 2006
469 points
Jul 22, 2008
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
90 pitches? Yowza. That's quite a long route. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Jul 25, 2008
El Gigante in Chihuahua, Mexico has a bolted route that is 30 pitches long, all free climbing at 13a. It is @3,000' tall.

Trango Towers and such are alpine routes.
manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Jan 27, 2006
2,693 points
Jul 25, 2008
Credits: Marty TwoBulls m2bulls.com  indiancountry...
Tim Stich wrote:
90 pitches?

a great day ~ :)
kirra
Joined Feb 1, 2006
724 points
Feb 12, 2014
Flying Viking, 5.11d/12a on the east face of Tininnertuup II in South Greenland. Supposedly a grade VIII route, 1200 meters J Meagher
Joined Oct 21, 2012
314 points
Feb 16, 2014
The Great Wall of China. It is the complete girdle traverse of the trapps in the Gunks. Over 9,000 feet long, may not be quality but it sure is alot of quantity. jdrago
From Rosendale, NY
Joined Apr 22, 2013
30 points
Feb 17, 2014
Honnold just soloed El Gigante. 2 days after El Sendero... video coming soon. MrClean
Joined Feb 17, 2014
31 points
Administrator
Feb 18, 2014
manuel rangel wrote:
El Gigante in Chihuahua, Mexico is 30 pitches long, all free climbing at 13a. It is @3,000' tall.

I think Muir Wall is a bit longer (3,200'ish), and Muir is not even the tallest in the world. The Trango Towers hosts the tallest vertical rock face in the world at about 4,300' "tall".

If we are talking about a vertical or near-vertical climb with no 4th class scrambling as part of the route or inordinate amounts of traversing/ ridge climbing, the Trango Towers is it. Anything longer than 4,000' is going to have a significant amount of traversing or ridge climbing, and then we start to push the line defining what can be appropriately considered "the longest."

J Meagher wrote:
Supposedly a grade VIII route

Haha. What is grade VIII? Grade VII means "a week or longer," as in everything from seven days to infinite days.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Feb 19, 2014
CoR
20 kN wrote:
Haha. What is grade VIII? Grade VII means "a week or longer," as in everything from seven days to infinite days.


Grade VIII means you will never finish it or infinite +1
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Feb 19, 2014
Huge invisible muscles
Isn't Mount Thor on Baffin Island the tallest cliff on earth? Seems like that would make it's routes the longest on earth. Unless you're talking alpine stuff with lots of ridges, traverses, rappels and approach pitches. limpingcrab
From Visalia, CA
Joined Nov 5, 2010
996 points


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