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Parriot Mesa
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Ascended Yoga Masters 
Happy Ending 
Longbow Chimney 
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Longbow Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c A1 [details]
FA: Harvey T. Carter, Ken Wyrick, 27 September 1974
Page Views: 5,099
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Jun 18, 2006
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Alison Conrad battling the chimney after the inter...

Description 

Start on the left side of the Crooked Arrow Spire.
P1-5.8-Climb up 20' of "solid" chockstones. (Once on top of chockstones place a piece of gear high in a crack on the left to avoid horrid rope drag.) Walk/scramble to back of chimney, climb 3 cracks to a intermediate belay(we stopped here but to do the route in 2 pitches continue 50' to a belay in the col between the spire and the wall.
P2-A1-Climb Bolts and fixed pins with 2 gear placements to summit. We counted 31 bolts/fixed pins. The last two 1/4" bolts don't have hangers but are on a slab and are pointing upwards.


Location 

Descent- We rapped from the top to the intermediate belay on pitch 1(with two 60m ropes) then to the ground. I don't think you can rap the route with one rope because of the last pitch.


Protection 

Standard desert rack. 2 ropes.



Photos of Longbow Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Swinging at the sky, strike three, it's out.. and you're safe!  Thanks to Sam (and ASCA)bolting an anchor on top and placing about 8 new bolts on the ladder.
Swinging at the sky, strike three, it's out.. and ...
Looking up the chimney from the intermediate belay, as Matt leads
Looking up the chimney from the intermediate belay...
Todd Gordon on Crooked Arrow Spire. <br />Photo: Todd Gordon collection.
Todd Gordon on Crooked Arrow Spire.
Photo: Todd Go...
Brought down quite a bit of old stuff off this tower
Brought down quite a bit of old stuff off this tow...
Amazing view of Castleton, Rectory, and La Sals from just before the top of the first pitch.
Amazing view of Castleton, Rectory, and La Sals fr...
Looking toward Castleton from the summit of Crooked Arrow Spire
Looking toward Castleton from the summit of Crooke...
Looking up to Parriot Mesa and Crooked Arrow Spire. photo Carol Crockett
Looking up to Parriot Mesa and Crooked Arrow Spire...
P.Ross approaching the start of the long bolt ladder of the last pitch
P.Ross approaching the start of the long bolt ladd...
View from the summit
View from the summit
Just above the intermediate belay in the chimney
Just above the intermediate belay in the chimney
Climber starting up Longbow Chimney.
Climber starting up Longbow Chimney.
The solid blocks at the beginning of pitch one of Longbow Chimney.  Quite frightening.
BETA PHOTO: The solid blocks at the beginning of pitch one of ...
silhouette on second pitch
silhouette on second pitch
The final bolt ladder
The final bolt ladder
Don't go this way. You will hate yourself, your mother, and Huntley Ingals for it.
Don't go this way. You will hate yourself, your mo...
Looking out of the Longbow Chimney toward Castleton.
Looking out of the Longbow Chimney toward Castleto...
Crooked Arrow Spire summit pitch.
Crooked Arrow Spire summit pitch.
Can you see the new anchor?  Above the ledge on the spire, top of P1.  Not a bad view for the belayer.. Castleton/Rectory in front and Colorado River behind!
Can you see the new anchor? Above the ledge on th...
BETA PHOTO
chockstones to chimney.. to bolt ladder.. to summit!
chockstones to chimney.. to bolt ladder.. to summi...
Deep inside Longbow Chimney.
Deep inside Longbow Chimney.
chimney-ah
chimney-ah
Start of the bolt ladder pitch.
Start of the bolt ladder pitch.
Todd Gordon getting off the jumars.  Photo: Todd Gordon Collection.
Todd Gordon getting off the jumars. Photo: Todd G...
Piece of the bolt ladder.
Piece of the bolt ladder.
Comments on Longbow Chimney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2013
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Apr 6, 2003

Thought the route was great fun ,really liked the classic chimney . the guide book discription is not very accurate .Its two good pitches to the gap, and the bolt ladder is longer(more bolts)

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2003

RE: pitch one; We made it to the gap in one 60 meter pitch. Unique pitch, chimneying and jamming 50 feet back in the chimney. It seemed more like 5.9 R.

By Andy Roberts
Oct 12, 2004

Can anyone give a better discription. Eric's old school aid description doesn't make it sound that great. It looks so cool i'd like to know what it's like. Thanks

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 13, 2004

I did the awful hump to the base a few years ago. The first pitch is an awful looking squeeze chimney. We brought nothing big(not sure if anything would fit) and we were light duty so we bailed.

If you loved leading Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest, the first pitch is for you.

By Rob Dillon
May 13, 2005

Chimney to bolt ladder- what more do you want? Go find out.

Not to violate the Guidelines or nuthin, but isn't this stuff supposed to be about adventures?

By Tom Willard
May 2, 2009

There is somewhat of a trail to the viewers left of the spire which avoids both cliff bands. Look for the large boulder just off the road to find the trails start.

By clay meier
Apr 25, 2010

The chimmney is by no means R rated. You can get a SOLID piece about every 6-8 feet. the longest runout was about 15' on very easy terrain. You dont need big gear either. Great route.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 21, 2010

Liz Wattenberg and I replaced many of the relics on this thing with modern ASCA stuff yesterday. Of the 15-20 bolts on the ladder I think I redid like 8 or 9. I left the most interesting museum pieces but set it up so if they fail you would have a hard time zippering the whole thing. The top requires a body length of easy free climbing. The new summit anchor is just under the cap rock as the stones on t he summit are pretty weak and not actually connected to the tower. Most of the pieces I pulled were still difficult to get out. However one, a pin about 25 feet up, was essentially an aluminum RURP. It came out scary-easy. Oh, I spaced a couple of the pulls as I rapped off (we were running way-late). If you go up, please take a hammer and a funkness and yank those two that are next to new bolts. Sorry about that...

A set of nuts is useful on the last pitch.

My advice to anyone doing this is to NOT try and walk straight up the scree slop from the road. I ruined our day by doing this. Go up the draw a mile or so before finding a vegetated slope that comes up on the climber left as Tom said.

Interesting route, unique setting, and wild summit. It will be sad when this one topples over!

By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
May 24, 2012

We broke the climb into three pitches. Up shitty stones at base (the hardest climbing of the route) and into the back of the chimney. This got the belayer out of the sun and into the shade. Then another longish pitch up the fantastic chimney to the base of the bolt ladder. One more to the top. I took a single set to #4 and a set of stoppers and thought this was perfect. For the top pitch take a .75 and or 1 for just a few feet off the ground and a set of small stoppers. Leave everything else at the base of the bolt ladder. Great route on a hot day.

By DaveT
From: Albuquerque
Aug 13, 2012

Looks like Peter Blank sums it up well regarding pitch breakdown and gear, except I found a double set of cams practical for P2. Also I carried a #5 and used it (P2), but there were probably alternatives. We intended to do the route in 2 pitches but ended up adding a belay as he describes...it made a lot of sense for rope management and sun protection, and then P2 is fairly long and really friggin good.

By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A1

did it 9-9-12 with drake and taylor. go .9 miles past castle valley turn off and take a right on the dirt road. if you have a real good 4x4 you could drive to the trail head. otherwise park in as far as possible and walk the wash to the giant lone boulder. gently saunter up the good trail that follows that dirt fin to the mesa. a few 5.9 moves puts you into a dirt shoot chimney. good belay in back at the base of the business. long classic chimney to a good ledge and belay. like everyone above says one or two cams and one or two stoppers. my frostworks sentinel nuts worked awesome! bolt ladder, some small bieners like nanos may be helpful. it was a little hard to clip some of the old hangers. bomber rap anchors on top. THANKS SAM!!! cleaned the remaining old stuff. rap the route. stroll back the way you came. great route. took the three of us 10.5 hours house to house (moab).

By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 22, 2012

There is a scary chockstone about 2/3 of the way up the chimney that moves and looks quite precarious. Don't yard on it! Its easy to stem over.

By Zeb Rafaker
From: Moab
Oct 7, 2013

Bring a light rack for this one. We brought and old #4 and used it but could have been fine with out it. Bring a BD #1 and .4 for the last pitch.