Scoping the next placement in a great corner.
Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.
The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.
Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.
From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.
Weather station 0.8 miles from here
34 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Long Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Long Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Long Wall:
Big Country 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Mailbox 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Autumn 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Perforator 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Rock Wars 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Next Day Air 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
B3 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Game Boy 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 140'
The Gift 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Long Wall
Vector Trouble 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a KY
: Red River Gorge
: Long Wall
Near the left (west) end of Long Wall is this striking orange dihedral above a ledge. Take the leftmost of three cracks to get to the ledge and belay to reduce rope drag. Then fire up the classic dihedral, stemming on good edges and dropping bomber nuts in the finger crack. Don't let the roof intimidate you. You get gear above your head as you edge out to the arete. Pull the exposed lip move on good holds and hike otthe ledge. Walk off left or concoct a rappel down the route....[more] Browse More Classics in KY
By Eric Wesseling
Oct 18, 2015
Did you lose a nice quality wool shirt at long wall during the week of october 15?
Let me know what brand and color the shirt is and I will get it back to you!