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Long Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are the Pies Fresh? S 
Autumn T 
B3 T 
Back Door to Paris S 
Big Country T 
Bloodline T 
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 
Cruise Control T 
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 
Fire and Finess S 
Game Boy S 
Gift, The S 
Gladuator S 
Hot September T 
Kazi and Mito S 
Long Wall Chimney T 
Mailbox T 
NEPA This T 
Next Day Air T 
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 
Perforator T 
Ralph & Bob's T 
Rock Caddie S 
Rock Wars T 
Sacred Geometry T 
Snatch, The S 
Souders Crack T 
Stand and Deliver S 
Trinket Man S 
Two Step T 
Vector Trouble T 
Whip It Out S 
Yuk T 
Unsorted Routes:

Long Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8446, -83.6686 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 78,953
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 2, 2006
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Photo by L. DeFilippo (my mother-in-law to be at t...

Description 

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.

Getting There 

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

33 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Wall:
Big Country   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Mailbox   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Autumn   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hot September   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cruise Control   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Perforator   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Rock Wars   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Vector Trouble   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fear and Loathing in Nada   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Back Door to Paris   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Next Day Air   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
B3   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Souders Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R     Trad, 80'   
Game Boy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 140'   
The Gift   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Are the Pies Fresh?   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 70110'   
Browse More Classics in Long Wall

Featured Route For Long Wall
Susan Smith top roping Autumn

Autumn 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall
Climb up the tan and orange rock (perhaps the name comes from this?) in a corner formed by a very thick left-facing flake. The crux is somewhere around midway to the anchors and is hand-size dependent. This route and it's neighbor, Rock Wars, are two of the nicest moderate Trad routes in the entire gorge. This climb was originally rated 5.8+ in the 1980's Martin Hackworth books, but was very strenuous and physical at the grade. Most climbers now refer to this as 5.9....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

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