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The Dihedrals
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Ankles Away S 
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Dihedral T 
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Kids With Guns S 
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 
Narcissism S 
Pillsbury S 
Twist and Shout S 

Long Slab aka Milk Duds 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Kate Mittendorf on Nov 15, 2013

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Taken from the big ledge halfway up the route

Description 

This new route is a long slab climb that starts just right of Pillsbury in the Dihedrals area. It follows a bolted line up to a large ledge and then continues on up to the top. The hardest individual move is at the bottom, but up near the tree it can get wet and muddy, so watch out on rainy days. Surely will be a classic for the grade once it sees more traffic.


Location 

Go to the dihedrals and find the obvious features that mark the start of Pillsbury (the two big flakes around to the right from the dihedrals). This is the slab climb before you enter the flat face that precedes the bunker.


Protection 

9 bolts



Photos of Long Slab aka Milk Duds Slideshow Add Photo
Start off left of the bolts, then move to the right after the third bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Start off left of the bolts, then move to the righ...
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By Jeremy Y
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, the hands run out a little near the 3rd bolt and getting over the last bulge, and noobies will have to resist grabbing the very conveniently placed tree, but its a fairly solid route. After rain seeps some on the bolts, but not where your hands and feet are going.

By Mark Nunes
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Another super-fun recent addition to Foster Falls--and a great warm up route. I've heard it called a 9, but compared to Twist and Shout or Ankles Away, I would keep this one at 8+. It's far from being run out, but that move along the ledge to your next clip might give a new leader a bit of anxiety....