|Type:||Sport, Aid, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A0 [details]|
|Submitted By:||nelsras on Aug 7, 2012|
|Comments on Long Shadow||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Roy Suggett
Nov 1, 2012
|Some of the bolts(old) and there placements(new) make this a serious route for a 5.9 climber. This is a hard-man, desert, old school route...and a lot of fun!|
By Suzy Stoke
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 15, 2014
First Pitch is solid 5.11a, the crux is a near-blank dihedral that you stem awkwardly about 3 bolts up. Following that pitch, the next three pitches are 5.9+ of good climbing. When I was leading this I only brought quickdraws, if you don't like 20 foot run-outs I'd recommend bringing small gear (a set of nuts will do). It was way more exciting with the exposure and run outs in my opinion, but to each his own.
You come to a nice ledge at the top of the climb & there is an option 5.12c/d pitch(felt like 5.14) follow the obvious bolt line. The first two moves which seemed scarier than they actually were due to how high up you are, but can easily be aided by pulling up on your QD's and punching it to the top.
Best time to climb this is from 5-8PM, otherwise it's like touching a hot frying pan, worth catching the sunset on the rap down.