Long Play 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | June 20, 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | May - Oct. |
| Submitted By: | Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011 |
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Eyeing the upper crux move before taking a stab. P...
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Description The start is pumpy, and though gear is good, it is strenuous to place. Once on the ledge (possible to belay here), things settle down to elegant face climbing on fairy-tale knobs, with occasional 5.5 runouts between good horizontal cracks, leading to another crux just above a bulge about 3/4 up. The bolt here makes it a secure move, avoiding any bounces against those sharp-edged knobs below. Good horizontals continue the pro through steep face climbing on the remainder of the pitch.
I'm biased no doubt, but Long Play ranks with Black Arch Arête for quality.
Location Begin on the left side of the base of the Long Play Wall, at a right-facing corner with several discontinuous vertical cracks leading up to a large ledge.
There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree at the top, a 70m rope is required.
Protection A full rack of cams and tricams, with double .3 and .4, triples of .5 and .7 Camalots. There is one bolt on the route, and a fixed tree anchor at the top. This is a long pitch!
Finishing the steep upper face of Long Play
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Tom Rosecrans makes the delicate step right at the...
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By Jaysen Henderson
Aug 6, 2011
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| hey jay i wanna add this one to the list of routes we're gonna do in a day, i wanna get the lead on this one! |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Fantastic climb with varied moves and moderate face in-between. Needs a little more cleaning but can definitely be led safely in its current condition. Watch for the 5.5 runout! |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
Nov 11, 2011
| The start was definitely the crux, with tricky placements and risk of a near ground fall, or at least an unpleasant swing. Definitely engaging at the start. The rest the the climb is very pleasant, and would be classic if a bit cleaner. High crux is well protected. Runouts are on easy climbing. |
By Will Roth
From: Lake Placid, NY
May 17, 2012
| The start is the crux but you can get gear and have a spotter right there so it is not really that bad. The first run out to the bolt you can sling a flake (double length runner needed) and then it is well protected from there to the top. If Black Arches Arete is PG13 than this climb should be G! |
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Aug 23, 2012
| high crux is easier if ur tall with gogo gadget arms. botttom is pumpy, especially on lead. this climb is spectacular. |
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