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Long Play Wall
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Long Play 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: June 20, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Oct.
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011
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Eyeing the upper crux move before taking a stab. P...

Description 

The start is pumpy, and though gear is good, it is strenuous to place. Once on the ledge (possible to belay here), things settle down to elegant face climbing on fairy-tale knobs, with occasional 5.5 runouts between good horizontal cracks, leading to another crux just above a bulge about 3/4 up. The bolt here makes it a secure move, avoiding any bounces against those sharp-edged knobs below. Good horizontals continue the pro through steep face climbing on the remainder of the pitch.
I'm biased no doubt, but Long Play ranks with Black Arch ArÍte for quality.


Location 

Begin on the left side of the base of the Long Play Wall, at a right-facing corner with several discontinuous vertical cracks leading up to a large ledge.
There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree at the top, a 70m rope is required.


Protection 

A full rack of cams and tricams, with double .3 and .4, triples of .5 and .7 Camalots. There is one bolt on the route, and a fixed tree anchor at the top. This is a long pitch!



Photos of Long Play Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the steep upper face of <em>Long Play</em>. Photo by Mike Prince.
Finishing the steep upper face of Long Play
Tom Rosecrans makes the delicate step right at the crux.
Tom Rosecrans makes the delicate step right at the...
Comments on Long Play Add Comment
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By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Aug 6, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

hey jay i wanna add this one to the list of routes we're gonna do in a day, i wanna get the lead on this one!

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fantastic climb with varied moves and moderate face in-between. Needs a little more cleaning but can definitely be led safely in its current condition. Watch for the 5.5 runout!

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011

The start was definitely the psychological crux for me, with tricky placements and risk of a near ground fall, or at least an unpleasant swing. Definitely engaging at the start. The rest the the climb is very pleasant, and would be classic if a bit cleaner, I think. High crux is well protected. Runouts are on easy climbing.

By Will Roth
From: Lake Placid, NY
May 17, 2012

The start is the crux but you can get gear and have a spotter right there so it is not really that bad. The first run out to the bolt you can sling a flake (double length runner needed) and then it is well protected from there to the top. If Black Arches Arete is PG13 than this climb should be G!

By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Aug 23, 2012

high crux is easier if ur tall with gogo gadget arms. botttom is pumpy, especially on lead. this climb is spectacular.