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DescriptionThis section contains routes beginning just after The Traverse and continuing to Bulletin Board. Once you drop down towards the bouldery gully below the Whale's Head, you are in Music Hall. After crossing The Traverse and stepping up onto the large and slightly tilted platform, Long's Arete rises directly overhead. Passing beneath this and over the "monobridge," Long Lane proper cuts up into the shady, dank cavernous area. Directly in front of you are a mix of easy to intermediate sport climbs of varying lengths. Getting ThereApproach from North Parking Area at Ho-Mei Village. Follow shoreline trail through Puffer's Pass and past The Clocktower. Rock-hop and scramble until you get to The Traverse. Once you have crossed this, you have arrived at Long Lane. Approach time ~20 minutes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Lane:
Dragonfly 5.7 Trad, 80 feet
A Dream of White Dragons 5.9 Trad, 70 feet
Dragonslayer 5.9 Trad, 70 feet
Plausible 5.10b Sport, 80 feet
Sky Ladder 5.10b Sport, 85 feet
Skyhook 5.11a Sport, 35 feet
Featured Route For Long Lane
Cross 5.10 International : Asia : ... : Long Lane
This stumpy route packs quite a punch. Although the guidebook lists it at 5.9, I absolutely groveled up this thing. It is consistently overhanging, and offers no secure jamming for my (smaller) hands. It is also too rounded for secure laybacking, and utterly lacks any single jug to rest or place from. It is a fun little power problem....[more] Browse More Classics in International |