|Type:||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3 [details]|
|FA:||Matt Moore, Josh Blumental, Feb., 1993|
|Submitted By:||toddgordon on May 22, 2007|
|Comments on Long Dong Silver||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Folsom
Dec 24, 2011
|Spot on description of this route by Todd. It took me a couple trips looking for this thing to realize I should start looking on the North side of the road. It was like 4 or 5 years ago when we were there... Very scary. I will never climb on Mancos(manky) shale again. Beautiful and surreal place to hang out though.|
From: moab, utah
Sep 25, 2015
|The triple expansion-bolt summit anchor has been sloughed off of Long Dong, we found it in the dirt a ways away from the tower. The next party out there will want to bring a bolt kit but more likely a bunch of webbing to sling the top of the tower for an anchor.|
By Cole Bradburn
Oct 4, 2016
OCT 1 2016
Cole Bradburn, Collin Wogenstahl, and Kory Kowallis.
Had an awesome day climbing this tower. Three stars for being the craziest pieces of choss I have ever climbed! Crazy gear and crazy mud. As you hammer on pins the other side of the tower continuously falls off... To top it all off a big storm came in as we were cleaning the route. Turning the whole tower and surrounding area into thick, nasty mud. The next party to go do this thing should bring more webbing for slinging the top. We put new stuff up there but with the Mancos Shale being black and salty the webbing is sure to go bad quickly.
Toucans, Tomahawks, Peckers, spectre, Pika crud hook and a handful of smaller angles. Maybe a few cams... (We used one down low and one to get onto the top once you pass the anchor) One 70m gets you up and down.
(The whole tower is kind like an expando flake. Most pieces would become loose as you placed the piece above it. Angles especially made the thing expand.)
By James Garrett
Oct 7, 2016
|Strong work Cole! ...I was too scared and creeped out:)!|