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Lost Angel
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Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
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Raise the Titanic S 
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Time Traveler T,TR 
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Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
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Zentropa T,S 

Long Dong Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Heads up left leaning dihedral/ramp on easy but exposed terrain to 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 2 heads up short, steep corner (crux) and then takes long easy corner to top of wall (between the South summit and main summit).

Protection 

Standard rack....double bolt anchor....huge boulder to sling at top.


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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 9, 2002

I would say this route is not 5.8. Maybe 5.7+ or so, it is a fun little route and protects very well. The "crux" is very short and makes this a great route for the beginning 5.8 leader.
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 12, 2002

I'll second that opinion and go a little further... To paraphrase Gerry Roach's view of climbing grades: "5.7 is hard, 5.8 I feel like I'm falling, 5.9 I am falling". I'd have to say this climb was a 5.6! I did enjoy this climb, the pro is great, the "crux" is a hand crack that is sinker; a good option for a first trad lead even....
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 25, 2005

I climbed this route the other day. It is definitely not 5.8. There's maybe one 5.7 move on the climb. It is worth the climb to finish with the last pitch of Zentropa however. If you're looking for a good trad lead, I wouldn't recommend this one.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Sep 10, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This was kind of a let-down. I knew it was a bit over-rated, but most of the climb is 5.4 (albeit an enjoyable 5.4) with 2-move 5.6 crux. Takes gear like crazy. Also, the two-bolt anchor is "after" the crux, not before it. This would be a great beginner lead as the climbing is moderate and the gear plentiful.
By Phill T
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Quite the simple lead. Was my first trad lead. Really easy to concentrate on finding good placements and not worry about falling at all. I'd put it at a 5.6 slab.
By goingUp
Sep 20, 2014

Two pitches, stopping on the ledge above the 'Signs of Life' anchors, makes for a great belay ledge to hang out on; in addition, lots of space to build an anchor in the crack before the 'crux'. It provided two cruising, trad pitches with the crux, just off that ledge moving left into the massive dihedral above. The dihedral can be climbed straight up at a very easy 5.5 and protects with a few #1 Aliens (or change directions and climb the last pitch of 'Zenotropia' ,10/c (the face on the right of the two bolt anchor {no rings}). Like the rest of the wall, a walk off finish.