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The Icebreaker
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Long Division T 

Long Division 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Pelczarski and Rene Ohms
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Tater Tot on May 1, 2013

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Description 

This is the nice looking crack just left of the prow. Climb the short face with a pin to get into the crack, eventually gaining a large ledge, then step left on exposed face holds to a second fixed pin. Continue upward.

The crux of this route is getting into the crack off the ground and clipping the pin. Last I was there just a few days ago, the pin was looking a little wiggly.

There is a secondary crux when attempting to squeeze into the almost offwidth chimney thing near the top of the crack.

Some spots have slightly crumbly rock. May clean up after a few ascents, if it ever gets any action!

Location 

Getting off the route can be a trick. If I remember right, we down climbed some of the side of the rock and then left a sling and rappelled. We may have done a Needles Style Rappel but I seem to remember leaving webbing. You should be able to find a way off if you're familiar with getting off obscure needles summits.

Protection 

One fixed piton. Bring all sorts of gear, including, I believe, even a number 4 or 5 BD Camalot. At least a single standard rack.


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