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long classic corner 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: any
Page Views: 1,332
Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Aug 20, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Rob Fielding enjoying this sweet crack. Photo cred...

Description 

Long left-facing very clean corner. Off hands to off width. First 75' is awesome!


Location 

This one stands out. The background of the photo that got me to this place. Climbing mags 04 weekly engagement calender week 3.


Protection 

bring lots!



Photos of long classic corner Slideshow Add Photo
makes you want to go there doesn't it?
BETA PHOTO: makes you want to go there doesn't it?
Sexual Basalt is on the left and the nice long corner is on the right.  You can get a good scale of things with people in the picture
BETA PHOTO: Sexual Basalt is on the left and the nice long cor...
Big Jon gettin' after it on Finlay Crack.
Big Jon gettin' after it on Finlay Crack.
Finlay Crack
Finlay Crack
Comments on long classic corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I would recommend a double rack of cams from yellow alien to #4 camalot (yes doubles on the big boys) and a single set of nuts. There are nice beefy anchors at top.

This route is longgggg. Bring your 60m for this one or do two raps. Midpoint anchors are atop a sport climb to the left of the climb.

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 5, 2010

According to the book this is known as Finlay Crack

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

No need for a PG13 rating.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

3-4 each of #3 and #4 camalots would not go unused on this route. a #5 is also nice to have- she's a wide one!

By Adam Floyd
From: Almo, Idaho and Las Vegas
Jul 19, 2013

So good,
I took two #3s and two #4s and was fine bumping a piece or two. A few small pieces were good as well.

By Kurt Howes
Nov 11, 2013

Four stars indeed! Not PG in the least; great gear the whole way; never run-out. I agree with Wilder; if not bumping and you want comfort then double rack to BD #4 with a third #3 and #4; single #5. Looks harder than it is. Smaller hands won't get the beautiful fist jams.