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Long Canyon

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Long Canyon North 
Longs Canyon Tower 
Maverick Buttress 
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Long Canyon 


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Location: 38.54503, -109.65515 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 26, 2002
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Cliff in Long Canyon.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Long Canyon is a little slice of sandstone heaven only a half hour drive from Moab. If you dig Indian Creek but get tired of waiting in line, check out this little gem. There are routes here that would get climbed hundreds of times a year if they were at Indian Creek, but in Long Canyon they retain an air of adventure and discovery. Splitters are the name of the game. The stone is high quality Wingate - just decide what size you want and you can find it, from desperate tips to menacing offwidth. Fret not, there are some top of the line hand cracks too.

The canyon offers two main areas, The Maverick Buttress, and The Shipyard. Maverick is better with a wider selection of routes and good shade. The Shipyard offers sun and a few good routes. There are also a number of very good climbs scattered about the canyon walls, many of which are not in any guide book so expoloration will reward the motivated. The canyon is huge and there is vast potential for new routes if you seek them out.

Bring a rack big enough to make any stripper jealous and some real beer from out of state. Free camping is readily available along the canyon floor and is generaly quiet and clean except for the occasional jeep drive by or desert-love-child beating their drum at 2 in the morning. The nearest facilities for water, ice and food are in Moab. A high clearance vechicle is recommended for the road up to Maverick Buttress but is not critical. Although the Wingate is of excellent quality, it is still sandstone and some of the lesser climbed routes hold dangerous loose rock, use caution, have fun.


Getting There 

Long Canyon is easy to find, it's right off Potash Road. From Moab drive North on US 191 to Potash Road. Follow the Colorado River towards the potash mine. Pass the Potash climbing area on your right and continue on until you see a sign for Jug Handle Arch on the left side of the road, which is about 15 miles from the junction of Potash Road and US 191. The arch is on the right side and is not obvious until you have passed the sign. Take your first right turn after the sign and you will be on Long Canyon Road which leads past The Ship Yard (park at the first campsite on the right) and continues up to some switch-backs and Maverick Buttress.


Climbing Season


44 Total Routes


['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',14],['5.11',19],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Canyon:
Shipwrecked   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Shipyard
Hot Toddy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Maverick Buttress
Electronic Battleship   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   The Shipyard
Texas Two Step   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Maverick Buttress
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   Long Canyon North
Nina   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   The Shipyard
Tequila Sunrise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Maverick Buttress
Gunsmoke   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Maverick Buttress
Round-Up   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Maverick Buttress
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Long Canyon North
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Long Canyon North
Done Lubin'   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Offwidth City
Gin and Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Long Canyon North
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Maverick Buttress
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Long Canyon North
Mustang Man   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Maverick Buttress
Happy Hunting Grounds   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 190'   Warrior Tower
Chalk is Cheap   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Long Canyon North
Boot Hill   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Maverick Buttress
Torpedo Bay   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Shipyard
Browse More Classics in Long Canyon

Featured Route For Long Canyon
Jeff is cruising the nice hand crack section.  The akward pod and small thin cux are still ahead of him.

Miss Kitty Likes It That Way 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
This is a really fun route with a relatively short, but hard crux. It is the elegantly curving crack to the right of Gunsmoke, and starts with perfect hands before some fingery 5.10 moves into a rest pod. Moving out of the pod up to the final crux seems about 10+ or so, then it's 10 feet of desperate, splitter rattly fingers to the anchors. Jump on it even if you're not a solid 11+ desert climber since the crux is short. Great route! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Long Canyon
Photos of Long Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Paying my respects to the late great Dan Osman atop Long Canyon.
Paying my respects to the late great Dan Osman ato...
Great campsite at the top of Long Canyon. It gets COLD though!
Great campsite at the top of Long Canyon. It gets ...
Long Canyon Road winds up out of the Potash Basin and provides some beautiful views along the way. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Long Canyon Road winds up out of the Potash Basin ...
4/1/13 includes all of long canyon. please respect. contact BLM at 435-259-2100
4/1/13 includes all of long canyon. please respect...
View from the top of Long canyon- Excellent camp sites!!
View from the top of Long canyon- Excellent camp s...
Good friends and good times. Camping near the top of Long Canyon in early January.
Good friends and good times. Camping near the top ...
Comments on Long Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 27, 2002

Some of the other developed areas in Long Canyon are; Deadman's Buttress, Off-Width City, Reptilian Wall, and Jug Handle Arch. Eric Bjornstad's "Desert Rock: Wall Street to San Rafel Swell" is the most comprehensive guide book

By Joe Collins
Nov 6, 2002

With the current state of the road up to Maverick Buttress, a high-clearance vehicle is definitely crucial. Also, the canyon is steep and narrow enough that there really aren't many good places to camp. The roadside spots on the Potash road are an option. Another option, especially if you have a low-clearence vehicle is to camp on the top of Island in the Sky and hike the one mile down Long Canyon to Maverick Buttress.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 4, 2003

no camping is allowed in long canyon and they do patrol it

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 11, 2004

As of 2004, Free camping is on top of the plateau, accessing Maverick from the North. The dirt road is almost as good as paved. The views are beautiful, and you're on BLM land if you are on the plateau (but not on it's very southern tip, which is part of the canyon).Furthermore, you'll have to walk 20 mns to go down to Maverick. An experienced 4WDriver can make it back up the loose, steep sandy road that separates the top of the plateau from the bottom of Maverick.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Oct 14, 2006

The recent rain (October 06) has all but wiped out the road. A cehicle with a short wheelbase and very high clearnace, or a rental car, is required to get more than a mile up the canyon. You might be able to reach Maverick from 313, but you really don't want to take your standard 4WD through the washouts from Potash Road.

By TomKingsbury
Dec 1, 2006

As for the washed out road: around Thanksgiving we were able to drive a stock Ford Ranger from Potash up to Maverick - no problemo....

Cheers,

Tom

By Mike Willig
Apr 9, 2007

Word of Caution....when the road gets a decent amount of rain on it, the dirt turns REALLY slick. I was going down the first switchback below Maverick at about 5mph and it was like trying to stop on ice.

By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Mar 24, 2009

Road condition update: 3/22/09 - Road is in good shape, passable to anything with 4 wheel drive (we saw a Subaru and Ford Escape). Also, there is NO CAMPING in Long Canyon. If you want to climb at Maverick Buttress, you can camp on top of the mesa above Long Canyon for free. Maps at BLM.gov show you must be a mile from the "main" roads in the area unless in a "designated site", but there aren't any of those, so camp a mile from the road, and stay away from the oil rigs.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Dec 3, 2012

Drove up to maverick buttress the other day in my girlfriends toyota yaris. Didn't have any problems at all. had to drive pretty slow a lot of the way but made it all the way to where the boulder hangs over the road. So unless your in a smart car, you can probably make it maverick buttress without any serious problems.