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Deadman's Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chasin' Skirt T 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Head Stack T 
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 
Unknown 11 T 

Deadman's Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.54503, -109.65515 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,711
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002  with updates from geoff georges
Forecast:
Tonight

70°
Sunday

96° | 70°
Monday

97° | 70°
Tuesday

98° | 70°
Wednesday

96° | 69°
Thursday

90° | 67°
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BETA PHOTO: long canyon from the top

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There 

Access the cliff by coming from the Shipyard crag or by parking 0.8 miles from the start of Long Canyon Road and ascending a drainage that has a tree near the top of it. The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

Climbing Season

For the Long Canyon area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Deadman's Buttress:
Chopper   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Gin and Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Chalk is Cheap   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Deadman's Buttress

Featured Route For Deadman's Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Milhaupt on pitch 2

Peccadillo 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Deadman's Buttress
Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Deadman's Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: long canyon from the top
BETA PHOTO: long canyon from the top

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