This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.
The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.
Browse More Classics in Long Canyon North
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Canyon North:
Program Director 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 190 feet
Chopper 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 190 feet
Bare Knuckle Boxing 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Dragon's Lair 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Peccadillo 5.11 Trad
Gin and Techtonics 5.11+ Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Chalk is Cheap 5.12- Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For Long Canyon North
Peccadillo 5.11 UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North
Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I...[more] Browse More Classics in UT