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This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.
The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.
9 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Long Canyon North
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Canyon North:
Chopper 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Program Director 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Dragon's Lair 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Dawn of an Error 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Gin and Techtonics 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Long Canyon North
Program Director 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North
About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail syetem on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few h...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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