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Long Canyon North

Select Route:
Number 11 in High on Moab guide book T 
Bare Knuckle Boxing T 
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Head Stack T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 

Long Canyon North  


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002
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Description 

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There 

The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Canyon North:
Chopper   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Gin and Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Chalk is Cheap   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Long Canyon North

Featured Route For Long Canyon North
The obvious splitter.   Photo: Pamela Pack

Head Stack 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North
This is possibly the most asthetic splitter offwidth in Long Canyon.Pitch one starts with some choss and goes into the obvious splitter offwidth ending on a small ledge. 120' with a width of 5" to 9". (5.12) 3 bolt anchorPitch two continues up the ever widening splitter ending on a good ledge at the obvious sqaure pod. 100' with a width of 9" to 12". (5.11 R) 2 bolt anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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long canyon from the top
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