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The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) 
Apogee Pending 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo 
Flamingo Lane 
Full Retard 
Here We Go Again... Again. 
Lead Farmer 
Logan's Run 
Long Black Veil 
Observe God's Mistake 
Pimp's Main Prophet 
Power Milk & Bagels 
Power Thirteen 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown 
Spitting Image 
Teenage Prostitutes 
That's What She Said 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 3 
Who Left the Fridge Open? 

Long Black Veil 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2011
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Beginning the first hard bit of LBV.


This beautiful black slab offers 60 feet of fun, cerebral pocket climbing interrupted by 20 feet of brutal thin edges and shallow pockets.

Begin with easy scrambling to a short section of large sinker pockets to reach a small bulge at a horizontal break. An awkward mantle gains more good pockets, followed by big spans to reach a series of rails trending up and left. The crux begins working past the fourth bolt. Micro edges, pitiful ripples, and perhaps a dyno or two lead to a good shake at a horizontal break near the 6th bolt. One more intimidating but not-too-bad boulder problem clears the slight bulge below the anchor.


Climbs the long black slab on the right face of the Apogee Pending dihedral.


6 bolts to 2BA. The 5th bolt is about 12" too high and therefore difficult for short folks to reach unless the draw is in place.

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