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The North Gym
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Long Black Veil 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2011
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Beginning the first hard bit of LBV.

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Description 

This beautiful black slab offers 60 feet of fun, cerebral pocket climbing interrupted by 20 feet of brutal thin edges and shallow pockets.

Begin with easy scrambling to a short section of large sinker pockets to reach a small bulge at a horizontal break. An awkward mantle gains more good pockets, followed by big spans to reach a series of rails trending up and left. The crux begins working past the fourth bolt. Micro edges, pitiful ripples, and perhaps a dyno or two lead to a good shake at a horizontal break near the 6th bolt. One more intimidating but not-too-bad boulder problem clears the slight bulge below the anchor.


Location 

Climbs the long black slab on the right face of the Apogee Pending dihedral.


Protection 

6 bolts to 2BA. The 5th bolt is about 12" too high and therefore difficult for short folks to reach unless the draw is in place.



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