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 ADVANCED
Motherlode Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Funkadelia T 
Golden Showers T 
Good Day for a Hangin' S 
Highgrader S 
Long Arm of The Law S 
Mighty Quinn S 
Panning for Gold S 
Reach for the Sky S 
Stake Your Claim S 
Whiskeroo S 

Long Arm of The Law 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller, June 2000
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,339
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Oct 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Chris Miller on the First Ascent of Long Arm Of Th...

Description 

A vertical face leads to a lower angled section below a slightly reachy roof move (crux), and finishes with some enjoyable face moves to the anchor.

Location 

Just left of the major break between the right and left parts of the cliff. A small pine is located just above the "roof" portion of the route.

Protection 

6 bolts, sport anchor


Photos of Long Arm of The Law Slideshow Add Photo
Glenn on Long Arm of the Law... with Lena on his l...
Glenn on Long Arm of the Law... with Lena on his l...
Motherlode Rock - West Face (left side)
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock - West Face (left side)
Glenn leads LONG ARM (right) while Lena warms up o...
Glenn leads LONG ARM (right) while Lena warms up o...

Comments on Long Arm of The Law Add Comment
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By steple
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Lower part is technical, upper part is overhanging on good holds. If the ledge in the middle wasn't there, I'd give it 4 stars.

I was told a hold broke left of the first bolt above the ledge. One could see where it used to be, and little crimp is all that remains. Without this hold, grade would be more like 5.11c. I disagree, once can just walk right on the ledge, go up, then traverse back left along the horizontal crack. I think it's more like 5.10d.
By Cory Richardson
From: Glidden, WI
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Being 6' tall, I was able to use a reachy right hand undercling and then power straight up over the roof above the bolt with a good left hand. I'd say it went at 5.11a for me, but my moves are not possible for anyone under 5' 11''. I am told the variation to the right is quite fun, possible for everyone, and goes at 5.10c.
By tom donnelly
Jul 9, 2012

Since the hold broke the route is even better!
Same rating, 11a. I am not giving any beta, but am not talking about the detour to the right, nor the way Cory describes.
By protohyp designs
Jun 10, 2013

I know who broke the hold and even have pictures
By johnnydanger
From: California
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Steep climbing on good holds. Really enjoyed this climb. I'm 5'6 and couldn't go to the jug from the left. If I had to dyno to it, it would be more more like 11c. I went to the right and traversed left to the jugs and had no problems. Hardest part of the climb was clipping the bolt above the crux. The rest of the climbing was mellow. Its hard 5.10 or soft 5.11. I love this type of climbing and it was an easy onsight for me.
By Jeff Edge
Nov 29, 2014

Going straight up the bolt line is a lot of fun and definitely no harder than 11a, if the undercling/balance hold (at the bottom of the first jug rail off the ledge) feels too far away try re-positioning your feet, you'd be amazed how much farther you can stand up down there. Super fun crux.