Long Arm of The Law 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller, June 2000 |
| Season: | spring, summer, fall |
| Submitted By: | Rick Shull on Oct 17, 2006 |
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Chris Miller on the First Ascent of Long Arm Of Th...
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Description A vertical face leads to a lower angled section below a slightly reachy roof move (crux), and finishes with some enjoyable face moves to the anchor.
Location Just left of the major break between the right and left parts of the cliff. A small pine is located just above the "roof" portion of the route.
Protection 6 bolts, sport anchor
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock - West Face (left side)
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Glenn on Long Arm of the Law... with Lena on his l...
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Glenn leads LONG ARM (right) while Lena warms up o...
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| Comments on Long Arm of The Law |
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By steple
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Lower part is technical, upper part is overhanging on good holds. If the ledge in the middle wasn't there, I'd give it 4 stars.
I was told a hold broke left of the first bolt above the ledge. One could see where it used to be, and little crimp is all that remains. Without this hold, grade would be more like 5.11c. I disagree, once can just walk right on the ledge, go up, then traverse back left along the horizontal crack. I think it's more like 5.10d. |
By Cory Richardson
From: Grand Lake, CO
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Being 6' tall, I was able to use a reachy right hand undercling and then power straight up over the roof above the bolt with a good left hand. I'd say it went at 5.11a for me, but my moves are not possible for anyone under 5' 11''. I am told the variation to the right is quite fun, possible for everyone, and goes at 5.10c. |
By tom donnelly
Jul 9, 2012
| Since the hold broke the route is even better!
Same rating, 11a. I am not giving any beta, but am not talking about the detour to the right, nor the way Cory describes. |
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