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Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in The Ranch Hand
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A Face in the Crowd S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Corn Bread T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lasso The Longhorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Marmot Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shimmy Shimmy Strut Strut S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tamale Kisses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Waiting for the Summer Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Kevin Stricker, Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin |
| Page Views: | 1,263 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a good route that climbs better than it looks from below. Originally, this was done as a 70m pitch. The first pitch is the better of the pitches by a bit.
P1. Ascend the second from the right of the steep dihedrals. From the ground, this appears to be a groove, but closer up it is a subtle, right-facing dihedral. A couple bulgy sections require good stemming to make it moderate. Above the dihedral, the climbing eases, but the protection options fade. Belay at a ledge near a boulder-like knob, 5.8 PG-13, 150'.
P2. Continue upward on grittier lower-angle face to the top. It is a bit runout, but the difficulty is low, 5.4 PG-13, 150'.
Walk off northward, and downclimb a ramp system (4th class) on the right. Hike down the forested slopes back to the base. Apparently, there are some old bolts somewhere up there, too.
P1. Ascend the second from the right of the steep dihedrals. From the ground, this appears to be a groove, but closer up it is a subtle, right-facing dihedral. A couple bulgy sections require good stemming to make it moderate. Above the dihedral, the climbing eases, but the protection options fade. Belay at a ledge near a boulder-like knob, 5.8 PG-13, 150'.
P2. Continue upward on grittier lower-angle face to the top. It is a bit runout, but the difficulty is low, 5.4 PG-13, 150'.
Walk off northward, and downclimb a ramp system (4th class) on the right. Hike down the forested slopes back to the base. Apparently, there are some old bolts somewhere up there, too.
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