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Yellow Knife Buttress
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Abbey Normal S 
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Cannery Row S 
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Gifts From Attu S 
Lone Ranger T 
Lone Wolf T 
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Lone Wolf 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Lee hansche
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 4, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: two 5.6 trad routes crossing up high

Description 

Story: I climbed this line Rope-solo to access the ledge so i could bolt Gifts from Attu (to the left). The climbing was surprisingly good (though QUITE dirty). I was thinking i had found a cool new virgin moderate when i came across a newly placed piton. This could only mean one thing, local obscurist Bradley White had been here. I looked in to it and decided I must have climbed his new route Old Yeller (5.6). He has since informed me otherwise and asked me to describe my line. So, here it is.

From the ledge where Gifts From Attu starts, look up and 15ft right of the obvious corner for a flake/crack system above the birch tree growing out of the ledge. Climb up just right of the tree to gain the crack and layback your way up. after 35-40 feet place good gear and exit to the left and up to some small trees. Climb up left of the trees (in to a corner). Make an airy step left out on to a balancy low angle face and make a few moves to a small ledge and one more tricky spot to gain a large ledge. Here you will find a piton driven in to quartz. I moved way left here on to a very roomy ledge where you will find a thread anchor I left (this is above Aurora Borealis and Gifts From Attu). Or since you are obviously out for an adventure, finish up Bradley's route!

I really would love to clean it someday cause its pretty fun, but for now plan on adventure. Also maybe another pitch perhaps.

Location 

Starts just right of the tree growing out of the ledge Where Gifts From Attu starts.

Protection 

Regular Rack to #3 camalot and a single pin.
Thread anchor 25 feet left on nice ledge. 1 rap with a 60m rope to the ledge TIE KNOTS IN YOUR ENDS!


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