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Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Wolfe
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: gus on Mar 10, 2009
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Last little steep part.

Description 

A mixed route on left end of Wolf Wall. Plug gear until you hit slightly overhanging headwall 2/3s of the way up.

Start up some face climbing up to a short, broad crack or crease that tilts right a little, through some Fu Manchu-like vines....Face and such climbing through to a broad ledge that breaks the cliff. Boulder up under a small roof and pass out to the right, spotting a couple of bolts. There is a very large chickenhead, don't be a bully and break it off. Tug up through, trending slightly left as you rise, more varied, slightly overhanging climbing on some nice features all the way to the top. Great route.


Location 

Left end of Wolf Wall.


Protection 

Trad and two bolts. A light (not too light) but well mixed rack. Belay at top or take long slings.



Photos of Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Getting steep again.
Getting steep again.
Passing Roof.
Passing Roof.
At the roof.
At the roof.
Crimpin' up and left.
Crimpin' up and left.
At the final rest.
At the final rest.
Rest/chalk.
Rest/chalk.
Done....time to belly flop.
Done....time to belly flop.
Comments on Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge Add Comment
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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Sep 22, 2009

And there are more routes potentially in this section.....To the right of this route.....also passing through Fu Manchu vine bundles and finishing on a similar headwall feature as its left next door neighbor. Its been TR'ed and will require 2-5 bolts not yet installed. Also a medium .10 and of similar quality.

...also on the left side of this route, but the ledge dividing the cliff is most prominent here, spoiling the aesthetic. Also the upper section here would be considerably harder than the lower, and the entire route would require more fixed placements