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Black Velvet Wall
Routes Sorted
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 
Ancient Futures T 
Cutting Edge T 
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 
Epinephrine T 
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 
Gobbler, The T 
I'm Not Worthy T 
Johnny Come Lately S 
Lone Star T 
My Little Pony T 
Overhanging Hangover T 
Prince of Darkness T,S 
Refried Brains T 
Rock Warrior T 
Sandstone Samurai T 
Smooth as Silk T 
Sour Mash T 
Spark Plug T 
Steel Monkey T 
Texanephrine T 
Texas Hold 'Em T 
Texas Tower Direct T 
Velveeta T 
Velvet Tongue, The T 
Yellow Brick Road T,S 

Lone Star 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R. Harrison, Paul Van Betten, Others
Page Views: 4,431
Submitted By: Tom Moulin on Sep 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Brian coming out of a stem up on Lone Star

Description 

Although it is entirely possible to link pitches or climb in other areas of the cliff (sometimes confusing, esp. down low and right above the Texas Tower), this is what we did:

P1: ~100ft right of Epinephrine and ~80' left of a chimney corner scramble and climb up some face climbing (5.8) and left to a ledge, 100'.

P2: trend right from the belay and follow crack system to the left of Texas Hold'em, belay at a small stance above a scrub oak in the crack. 5.7, 80'

P3: Traverse right on edges to the bolt on pitch 2 of Texas Hold'em, 5.9, passing a two bolt belay continue up and right through the 5.6 corner to another 2 bolt anchor at the right side of a ledge.

P4: Follow the corner above to another bolter belay, 5.7, 60'P5: climb the small right facing dihedral above to another bolted belay 5.10, 60'

P6: step down and follow 4 bolts up and right (5.11) to a small right facing dihedral (5.9), 60'

P7: Climb the large right facing dihedral with the large crack to a ledge 5.10 or face climb (no gear) around the large bit in the crack on edges to the right, another short bit of 5.10- crack/corner gets you to the top of the Texas Tower. 160' Rappel or down climb to another ledge with a bolted belay on the left (5.7) 20'Note: directly up from this belay is the line of Texas Hold'em

P8: Trend up and left past a fixed nut to a bolted belay 5.9+/10- 70'

P9: Traverse left and down, passing ~ 5 bolts to a bolted belay at a small ledge stance 5.10- 60'

P10: From where P9 meets the shallow dihedral (just before down climbing to the belay) continue straight up through the shallow dihedral passing ~7 _JU_ quarter inch bolts 5.9+

P11: Traverse right clipping a quarter inch button head, make a couple thin face moves (5.10+/11-) up and right around a roof into a dihedral with fragile/chossy rock. Continue up the dihedral (5.9) to a quarter inch button head and RP nest belay, 90'

P12: Continue up the dihedral, then trend right pulling over some small roofs on suspect patina crimps (PG), work around a bulge (5.10) and onto a right trending ramp. Belay here (100') or continue ~30' up the ramp to a bolted belay.

P13: Continue up the ramp (easy/moderate fifth class) to a ledge system below a large cleft.Note we did a small pitch here through the trees to move the belay up to the base of the next pitch.

P14: Follow the chimney/crack system on the right of the cleft to small ledges in the chimney, 5.10-, 80'

P15: Continue up this crack system (5.10-) for ~30' them move right through a small corner onto a ledge, 70'

P16: Climb through ledges, trees and large blocks, belay atop the highest large block, 5th class, 50'

P17: Traverse right into a corner/crack climb this (5.10) to a large scrub oak, climb through the tree and traverse right along a ledge to a belay, 80'

P18: Climb straight up from the belay on a well featured face with much lichen, follow the obvious right slanting crack to a ledge up and right, 5.10-, 100'

P19: Traverse up and right around an arÍte to a large corner and ledge, belay, 5.6 70'

P20: Head up and right with hollow patina crimps (5.9 PG) and over a bulge with more crimps aiming for a large pine tree, belay in an alcove with large blocks, 220'

P21: From the alcove step left and climb to the pine tree. 5.5, 70'

Descend as for Epinephrine

Protection 

double rack up to #3 camalot, including singles up to #5 camalot.


Photos of Lone Star Slideshow Add Photo
Lee Robinson spreading wide up on pitch 12 of Lone...
Lee Robinson spreading wide up on pitch 12 of Lone...
Gomoll linking p14, 15, 16.
Gomoll linking p14, 15, 16.
Gomoll following p20 (by the book, p12 for us). Th...
Gomoll following p20 (by the book, p12 for us). Th...

Comments on Lone Star Add Comment
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By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 19, 2009

We did this route a couple of days ago by starting on Epinephrine so that we could climb the first half of the wall in the shade (early summer beta). This allowed us to make a lot of progress while waiting for the rest of the route to go in the shade.

Once on Lone Star proper (pitch 11 in the description, as 1-10 is Yellow Rose) here is some beta to help if you use a 70meter rope.

Link p11-12, with good use of runnering you can make it all the way to the bolted anchor. (BTW, you can back up the buttonhead with an awesome green alien)(230')

p13 climb all the way to the pedestal inside the chimney with the double cracks (220')

Link p14, 15, 16 all the way to the top of the last perched block (220 -230')

p17 climb past the tree to the nice ledge (I tried to link into 18, but had impossible drag due to the tree, and had to downclimb back to the ledge) (80')

Link 18, 19 go from the diagonal crack all the way to the base of p20. We discovered that p19 is more like 130', not the 70' described so 18 and 19 together is like 230', just barely doable with a 70m (230+')

You could link 20 and 21 with some simul climbing (we pitched these out, but the terrain the leader and follower are on is easy, but fragile, exercise good judgement if you wish to simul part of these.)
(p20 230', p21 short and easy)

This allowed us to cut 11 short pitches down to 7 massive pitches, but could cut it to 6 if you simul the end.

It was really fun to take off and try to climb 70m pitches, I recommend this.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

An interesting route- if I were to do it again, I'd start via Texas Hold 'Em, avoiding the initial pitch of Lone Star, which definitely detracted from the day (poor rock quality and fair to marginal gear the whole way- glad i wasnt on the sharp end!). The upper pitches above the ramp, though were incredible- well worth doing.

Darren's beta was perfect and a 70m line is mandatory anyway for the final 5.9 pitch. Even if you take a 60m line, link the first two pitches and build a hanging belay on the ramp if necessary- the RP nest belay is a joke and should be avoided.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 8, 2010

Alittle less like a Red Rock Canyon...alittle more like a Black one.

josh
By nicholas bujak
Oct 9, 2012

Sandbagged for the grade. Texas hold'em last pitch was hard for 10d and the 10a and 10b pitches on lonestar felt much harder. Maybe i was having a bad day but I TR sent the 11c final pitch on Cloud Tower the next day but could not come close to even attempting to sen the 10d Texaa Hold'em pitch. Lonestar was a great linkup.
By earl mcalister
From: idaho
Oct 12, 2014

The bolt protecting the crux has been replaced. Gear wise, we got by with bringing one old #4 camalot, rather than a 4 and 5. On the last pitch watch out for loose rock from people topping out epinephrine. My partner almost got clocked by a big one.