|223 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c/d C0 [details]|
|FA: ||headwall unknown? Variation Bradley White, Larry, Kevin Klinepeter, 1989 |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Jun 28, 2009|
At a (usually seeping wet a little below it), ramp heading in the east direction is a very awkward boulder like problem (5-9) to gain the ramp. After this, directly above the ramp is the original line of a couple of bolts without hangers. Variation begins where ramps ends, I put in 2 bolts to get to a crack going through the head wall right of the ramp. hung off bolt to place gear in crack and moved up the crack (5-10). At crack's end moved left easily (5-4)and back right through break to a belay (beware of rope drag). I then led through a large crack above belay (5-0) to dirt climbing up to a clean low angle (5-3) arÍte (no protection) to the top of this crag. This variation is called Lone Ranger after that mysterious man or woman that bolted the head wall long ago (likely by sky hooking or rappel bolting. The old direct line will definitely go free. Our variation right of the old bolts and left of the finish to 'Alaskan Arches'.
Yellow Buttress. Obvious ramp about 8-10ft off the ground on the middle east side. Get down by trail on west side or do 2 rappels from trees.
Light trad. rack with some medium cams, a couple of fixed bolts, long slings.