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Checkerboard Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Checkmate T,S 
Circus Finish T 
Cross-trainer T,S 
Green Thumb T 
King Me T,S 
Knight's Move T 
Lone Piton T 
Pawn's Promotion T 
Punch In The Nose T 
Ring Leader T 
Ring Route T 
Sotol Roof T 
Worth the Effort T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lone Piton 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 985
Submitted By: cuclimbing on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Basic route path, some multi-pitch mixed with some...

Description 

Named for a random rusty piton found on the route. Gets a great view of the Worth the Effort.

Approach as for Cross-trainer, leave packs on the slab left of it. Scramble near the base of rock until past the buttress left of Green Thumb.

Pitch 1, 5.4, maybe a bit more for the last step up. Length unknown (we always scrambled it). Go past the buttress, then up a thorny gully (the same "thorny gully" as for Ring Leader. Step left onto a ledge and continue up and left on the slab. The easiest, and even somewhat protectable, way is to go up the middle. A large sloping ledge will take you left. Scramble (or climb, it's about 5.6) another 20 feet up to a comfortable the walkable bottom of the gully where Worth the Effort starts.

Pitch 2. (100ft) Go up a left-slanting chimney filled here and there with variously sized boulders. Your first pro will be fairly high and there are some loose chocks to watch out for. Stay in contact with the solid slab on the left all the way past the last of the boulders as the chimney narrows to an off-width. Once past the chocks, make sure to place protection for your second. Take the clean corner to a nook under the overhang.

Pitch 3. Make a piton-protected step left onto a ledge and follow it. The ledge will become intermittent, but the hands are good. So is the exposure. Clip and old bolt and start up on smaller holds. Continue left past bird poop (no active nest) into a right-facing corner and stay in it for the rest of the climb. Your destination is the sotol against the sky line. The last third of pitch 3 can be avoided by taking off left, but you will not want to pass it up.

In a windy weather you may want to split pitch 3 in two to assure good communication with your second for the traverse section.

Location 

Refer to the picture. The blue route goes up a seriously overgrown, unused gully. It's far cleaner to do the first pitch. The same goes for the approach to Worth the Effort.

Protection 

Larger cams and nuts, too. There is a "lone piton" at the start of the third pitch.


Photos of Lone Piton Slideshow Add Photo
Last step up Pitch 1 (to the belay below the interesting Pitch 2). Photo Cheryl Bare.
BETA PHOTO: Last step up Pitch 1 (to the belay below the inter...
Lot of fun wide cracks and rock faces to play on
Lot of fun wide cracks and rock faces to play on
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
fun little crack
fun little crack
If you take the blue line on topo, you'll end up in a much overgrown, steep gully full of large boulders and very loose rock. Very hard to negotiate. Photo Cheryl Bare.
BETA PHOTO: If you take the blue line on topo, you'll end up i...

Comments on Lone Piton Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Our rack included doubles from BD C4 0.75 to #3 plus a #4; used them all on the last pitch. Even brought a #6 and placed it ... but could have brought a 2nd #4 instead. Of course, a better leader could bring less.

Don't let the leftward horizontal traverse after the pitch of this Photo intimidate you without at least starting to get on it. At the same time, a ~40 foot vertical hand-sized crack to the far right can be led before traversing back left and up and over into final vertical crack system (with an intermediate belay in there somewhere).

We saw two pitons on the route; still like the name. Thanks for posting - fun route!