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Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Puss in Boots, Heidi Newland, and Zorro, Mark Wat...

Description 

As you face the wall, the climb furthest on the left.

A fun, thoughtful opening sequence can be avoided by approaching the first bolt from the left. Cruise the rest of the face to the anchors.

Protection 

4? bolts + anchor (2 cold shuts?)


Photos of Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck Slideshow Add Photo
Zach pulling through the direct start option.
Zach pulling through the direct start option.

Comments on Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck Add Comment
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By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun route, worth doing. The direct start option is probably more of a 5.9 upto the first bolt. After that, much easier.
By Glenn Foltz
May 31, 2010

Great route, especially for first timers... I am yet to take someone climbing for the first time that couldn't make it up! I agree to the direct start being more like 5.9! seems to get a bit tougher each year as the ground erodes away! The crack to the left of the route may be an easier alternative for beginners!
By Seth Webster
Jun 10, 2015

Yeah, the direct is rather tricky to sequence. Definitely not a 5.8 if you do that.
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