Shockingly fun for a 5.4 on Staender Ridge. Great rock, good movement. If you were interested in a couple of other routes near Adit Rock, and were looking for something different, this could be a great excuse for a diversion from the typical day at Smith. Use this route and a couple others as a good first day of the season, or a nice place to go when you're injured, and still want to climb.
Find Adit Rock - the closest large formation to the river on Staender Ridge. Tread as lightly as possible on the trail up, erosion could become an issue here.
You'll know the route because it's riddled with attractive pockets, it faces the river, its low angle, and it has fresh bolts on it. It's around to the right when you look up at the rock from the river, near the great looking sharp arete and a funny little 5.7 slab.
Sarah on her way up to the first of 4 bolts on Lol...
BETA PHOTO: Ryan belays Luis on Lollypop League. Not sure why...
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 17, 2008
Very much agree - shockingly fun 5.4. Big jugs with some interesting movement. Nice, relaxing little climb if you are too tired to hold onto thimbles anymore down at the tall crags - or just want to get away from crowds that can sometimes settle around most of the easy stuff at the Dihedrals & Cinnamon areas.
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
5.5 in Watts' book (circa '92).
Very fun for the grade regardless. A great beginner's sport lead.
Also, some PM shade (not on this route per se, but on some of the others in the area, or while resting) is nice on hot spring/summer days
From: Bend, Or.
Jul 6, 2011
Heads up: Stellar 5.8 around the corner downstream from this. It's called 'Here and never found'. The rock, the moves, the view and the breeze, beautiful. **** in my book!
From: Gresham, OR
May 26, 2013
5.5 in Alan Watts 2nd Edition too