Enjoying warm winter sun on "Ya Os Vale"...
The famed Sector L'Olla is Siurana's power headquarters; the place to come for those in search of short & fierce roped bouldering. Many famous power routes reside in the tiny tufa-studded cirque at the center of this cliff, most notably "La Cara Que No Miente" (8a+) and "Bistec de Biceps" (7b+). Both routes were featured in the legendary Eric Pearlman series "Masters of Stone". Despite the stunted height of this cliff, this is undoubtedly some of the nicest limestone at Siurana, offering amazing sinker pockets, frustrating wide tufas, and beautiful orange and blue streaks. The central cirque overhangs a good 30 degrees, making all of these routes burly & gymnastic. This is also what Ron Kauk would call a "ropebag-free zone", meaning the cliff-base is free of dust & other debris.
Despite its reputation, there is a little something for everyone at this crag, with some of the best 5.11s around, such as "Mayling" and "El Caganer", located on the right end of the cliff. There are also a handful of standard-length sport climbs on the far left end of the cliff, including the classic 8b "Migrany". In total, there are ~35 routes ranging in grade from 6b (5.10+) to 8b (5.13+).
This crag gets a bit more shade than other places at Siurana, due to its location tucked in the back of the canyon. The entire cliff is shady until ~11am. Ya Os Vale & routes to the left stay shady for another hour or so, and then the cliff is in full sun until the afternoon, when the Siuranella cliff provides a bit of shade in the winter, starting at around 2pm.
L Olla is part of the same general cliff band as Espero Primavera. Park and approach as for Espero Primavera, but continue west along the cliff base trail. The trail descends, and passes around an enormous detached pillar. Stay right after the pillar, passing below the El Pati cliff, and its famous testpiece ¨La Rambla¨. Stay right at all of the trail forks, eventually gaining a high extremely exposed ledge. Continue along the ledge to a beautiful steep cirque of short, tufa-ed sport routes.
Weather station 14.6 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in L'Olla
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in L'Olla
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for L'Olla:
Mayling 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 50'
Featured Route For L'Olla
Mayling 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Europe
: ... : L'Olla
One of the best 5.11s in Siurana, Mayling is an excellent outing, and makes a great warmup for those interested in the routes further left. The route climbs quite a bit longer than it looks, with not a bit of trivial movement, and great rock that is not sharp.Begin a bit left of the bolt line, up a brown slab. Work back right at the first bolt, then follow juggy pockets up the orange wall to a diagonal flare. Hard moves head left from the flare to reach the horizontal break and a good rest. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
L'Olla is famous for this small cirque of brillian...
L'Olla lies in the back of the valley.
The left side of L'Olla. These routes begin on a ...
The right side of L'Olla, including the right-half...
The right side of L'Olla offers several classic mo...
Topo with key routes marked.