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L'Olla

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Bistec de Biceps S 
Cap Rapat S 
El Caganer S 
La Cara Que No Miente S 
Mayling S 
Tagediebe S 
Valga'm deu quin Patar  S 
Ya Os Vale S 

L'Olla  


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Elevation: 2,300'
Location: 41.2661, 0.93679 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,819
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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Enjoying warm winter sun on "Ya Os Vale"...

Description 

The famed Sector L'Olla is Siurana's power headquarters; the place to come for those in search of short & fierce roped bouldering. Many famous power routes reside in the tiny tufa-studded cirque at the center of this cliff, most notably "La Cara Que No Miente" (8a+) and "Bistec de Biceps" (7b+). Both routes were featured in the legendary Eric Pearlman series "Masters of Stone". Despite the stunted height of this cliff, this is undoubtedly some of the nicest limestone at Siurana, offering amazing sinker pockets, frustrating wide tufas, and beautiful orange and blue streaks. The central cirque overhangs a good 30 degrees, making all of these routes burly & gymnastic. This is also what Ron Kauk would call a "ropebag-free zone", meaning the cliff-base is free of dust & other debris.

Despite its reputation, there is a little something for everyone at this crag, with some of the best 5.11s around, such as "Mayling" and "El Caganer", located on the right end of the cliff. There are also a handful of standard-length sport climbs on the far left end of the cliff, including the classic 8b "Migrany". In total, there are ~35 routes ranging in grade from 6b (5.10+) to 8b (5.13+).

This crag gets a bit more shade than other places at Siurana, due to its location tucked in the back of the canyon. The entire cliff is shady until ~11am. Ya Os Vale & routes to the left stay shady for another hour or so, and then the cliff is in full sun until the afternoon, when the Siuranella cliff provides a bit of shade in the winter, starting at around 2pm.

Getting There 

L Olla is part of the same general cliff band as Espero Primavera. Park and approach as for Espero Primavera, but continue west along the cliff base trail. The trail descends, and passes around an enormous detached pillar. Stay right after the pillar, passing below the El Pati cliff, and its famous testpiece šLa Ramblaš. Stay right at all of the trail forks, eventually gaining a high extremely exposed ledge. Continue along the ledge to a beautiful steep cirque of short, tufa-ed sport routes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.6 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for L'Olla:
Mayling   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Bistec de Biceps   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Classics in L'Olla

Featured Route For L'Olla
Resting after the intense crux of Ya Os Vale.

Ya Os Vale 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Europe : Spain : ... : L'Olla
Though merely a boulder problem, this is one of the classic power routes of Siurana, and one of the best 7c's period. The wall is basically a pegboard of sinker 2-finger pockets on a 30 degree overhang. The sequence is trivial to decipher from the ground, so tendon strength & attitude are the only barriers to the on sight.Work up to the horizontal break, then make a long reach to the first pocket. More big reaches between generally great pockets leads to the moment of truth, a desperate stab ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of L'Olla Slideshow Add Photo
L'Olla is famous for this small cirque of brillian...
L'Olla is famous for this small cirque of brillian...
L'Olla lies in the back of the valley.
L'Olla lies in the back of the valley.
The left side of L'Olla.  These routes begin on a ...
The left side of L'Olla. These routes begin on a ...
The right side of L'Olla, including the right-half...
The right side of L'Olla, including the right-half...
The right side of L'Olla offers several classic mo...
The right side of L'Olla offers several classic mo...
Topo with key routes marked.
Topo with key routes marked.

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