|Type:||Sport, 28 pitches, 2800', Grade VI|
|Original:||YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]|
|FA:||Bert van Lint, Peter Baumeister, Lucas Laeser|
|Submitted By:||Laeserguns on Sep 8, 2010|
|Comments on Logical Progression||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 6, 2014
This route is as good as it gets for big-wall adventure climbing! The rock quality is incredible and each pitch whether its 5.13 or 5.11 is thought provoking. Thanks to Luke Laser and crew for all of the effort it took to put up this awesome route.
The approach beta is somewhat complicated depending on the status of your car -- The road to the top of El Gigante is a burly 4*4 road that has a few stream crossings and some pretty steep sections with rocks. A good truck will make it for sure. The way that we did it was to hire a local to drop us off with a pick up date. This seemed like a great way to go because you get to support the locals which is much appreciated. We meet this very helpful local named Fernando who is the owns the San Lorenzo Ranch just outside of Basaseachi. He is the guy to connect if you are planning a trip -- He has great camping at his place, lots of info, knows all the locals and is just a great guy to hang with. This is the facebook page where you can contact him -- facebook.com/sanlorenzobasasea...
The hike down to the base of the face takes about 3/4 hours depending if you stick the right descent gully. From where the road ends there is an obvious camp site with a fire ring, this is where the trail to the descent gully starts. Head out on the overgrown road for about 150 yards past the fire ring to a "pine needle" ridge that drops off the trail to the left. We left some cairns to mark a few tricky sections. Once you drop down angle towards the right to the start of a steep gully -- if you look for it you will find steep switchbacks that lead down this section. At the bottom of the steep gully you will be dried up drainage with water polished boulders. There are some cairns that are scattered all the way down the drainage. There are a few sections that you need to do some down climbing and there is a fixed rope on one section. The drainage will drop you at this amazing stream with great views. There is a nice trail from here to the base -- There is some bushwhacking to get the start but other than that the trail is good.
The route is easy to find and once you are on it there is really no way to get off route. All the anchors are bolted. No gear is needed. There are two ledges to bivy on -- The Tower of Power on top of pitch 8 which is an ok bivy for 2. The Critter bivy is the top of pitch 18 and is a great ledge.
Pitch 13 has several holds that have broken and is much harder now. I thought it was 13a/b with a very short but powerful crux section. Other than that all the grades seemed fairly right on.
GET ON IT!!!