Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Loggerhead Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 2,255
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Osprey on Nov 27, 2009
Forecast:
Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Partly Cloudy
51° | 30°
Clear
52° | 31°
Partly Cloudy
54° | 34°
Clear
61° | 36°
Clear
66° | 39°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Description 

Logger Head Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.

The quality of rock here is excellent. As with many areas of Yosemite expect old-school climbs mixed together with new sport routes. There is something for everyone at this buttress.

Tucker Tech didn't put many rappel chains in so bring extra slings to leave at the bolted anchors.

Getting There 

Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loggerhead Buttress:
Simian Sex   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Loggerhead Buttress

Featured Route For Loggerhead Buttress
A look up the loggerhead ledge route  .

Loggerhead Ledge Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Loggerhead Buttress
This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended. Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.This is one of the better ledges in the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Loggerhead Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013
There are some really good crack climbs around the left toe of the buttress. Corner shop 10d, Cutting corners 10b, and a really nice bolted arete up high that was scrubbed down to the last speck of dirt. All climbs by Brian "Mr. way".