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Loggerhead Buttress
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey 
Drunk Tank 
Edge-u-cator 
Le Nocturne 
Log Jam 
Loggerhead Ledge Route 
Orange Juice Avenue 
Simian Sex 
Sink Like A Stone 
Sober Up 
Sorry Poopsie 
Sow Sow Sow 
Swillar Pillar 

Loggerhead Buttress 


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Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Osprey on Nov 27, 2009

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Sow Sow Sow

Description 

Logger Head Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.

The quality of rock here is excellent. As with many areas of Yosemite expect old-school climbs mixed together with new sport routes. There is something for everyone at this buttress.

Tucker Tech didn't put many rappel chains in so bring extra slings to leave at the bolted anchors.


Getting There 

Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loggerhead Buttress:
Loggerhead Ledge Route   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade II   
Sow Sow Sow   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Conquest of the Stud Monkey   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   
?? Simian Sex Junior   5.10a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Simian Sex   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Sink Like A Stone   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Loggerhead Buttress

Featured Route For Loggerhead Buttress
A look up the loggerhead ledge route  .

Loggerhead Ledge Route 5.7  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Loggerhead Buttress
This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended. Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.This is one of the better ledges in the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA