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Loggerhead Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Chester the Molester S 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Hammerhead T 
Here on the Inside T 
Lagerhead T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Loggerhead Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.72966, -119.62316 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,213
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Yosemite Valley Overview - North - El Cap to Camp ...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Loggerhead Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.

The quality of rock here is excellent. As with many areas of Yosemite expect old-school climbs mixed together with new sport routes. There is something for everyone at this buttress.

Tucker Tech didn't put many rappel chains in so bring extra slings to leave at the bolted anchors.

Getting There 

Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.

Climbing Season

For the Yosemite Valley area.

Weather station 2.5 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Loggerhead Buttress:
Conquest of the Stud Monkey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Simian Sex   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Loggerhead Buttress

Featured Route For Loggerhead Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: A look up the loggerhead ledge route  .

Loggerhead Ledge Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Loggerhead Buttress
This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended. Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.This is one of the better ledges in the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Loggerhead Buttress Add Comment
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By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013
There are some really good crack climbs around the left toe of the buttress. Corner shop 10d, Cutting corners 10b, and a really nice bolted arete up high that was scrubbed down to the last speck of dirt. All climbs by Brian "Mr. way".

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