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 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Loggerhead Buttress  


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Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009
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Description 

Logger Head Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.

The quality of rock here is excellent. As with many areas of Yosemite expect old-school climbs mixed together with new sport routes. There is something for everyone at this buttress.

Tucker Tech didn't put many rappel chains in so bring extra slings to leave at the bolted anchors.

Getting There 

Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loggerhead Buttress:
Conquest of the Stud Monkey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Simian Sex   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Loggerhead Buttress

Featured Route For Loggerhead Buttress
A little vegged out on the start , but a great fin...

Sorry Poopsie 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Loggerhead Buttress
This is the clean finger crack that splits the face to the right of Edge-u-cator. Make an awkward start past a couple bulges to reach the start of the finger crack. The crack peters out at the top and there is a 5.8 move getting established on the lower angle slab above. Traverse left to a horizontal and then make a couple mantles to reach the bolted anchors. Would probably be a bit scary up top for a 5.8 leader....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Loggerhead Buttress Add Comment
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By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013
There are some really good crack climbs around the left toe of the buttress. Corner shop 10d, Cutting corners 10b, and a really nice bolted arete up high that was scrubbed down to the last speck of dirt. All climbs by Brian "Mr. way".