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Logan

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Logan 


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Location: 41.7435, -111.795 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 14, 2004
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Autumn in lower Logan Canyon. Photo was taken from...

Description 

Limestone and quartzite climbing. Predominately sport routes. The approaches can be as small or as large as you desire, and there are many avenues for exploration. Certain climbs (21) to date have been closed to protect an endangered species (Maguire Primrose). Logan is a cool canyon, therefore winter rock-climbing is all but impossible.


Getting There 

Take US 89 up the canyon.


283 Total Routes


['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',132],['2 Stars',101],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',15],['5.8',17],['5.9',16],['5.10',54],['5.11',78],['5.12',57],['5.13',25],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Logan:
Drilling In The Dark   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Fucoidal Quartzite
The Lost Bolt   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Practice Wall
Kentucky Fried Chicken   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Kentucky Fried Penguin
The Yeti   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Hobbit Caves
Kentucky Fried Penguin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Kentucky Fried Penguin
Community Effort   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Illusions   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Terminalogical Inexactitude   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Babe-a-licious   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Betagraph
Begging For Bolts   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Northface Massacre    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Knightland : Hidden Wall
Betagraphic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   The Betagraph
Limestone Cowboy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Heat Miser   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport   Mile 385 Area
Minnowmaker   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   China Wall
Gray Matter   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 70'   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Grey Hound   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Clear For Take-Off   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
The Power of Silence   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 90'   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Soul Crusher   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Browse More Classics in Logan

Featured Route For Logan
Melissa contemplating the technical crux of Sans Nom.

Sans Nom 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Blacksmith Left
Excellent. This starts in an obvious corner with laybacks and tension movements to a shake out above the dihedral section. The crux lurks around the long chain draw and pulls small crimps with smaller feet. A longer pull to a hold under the roof, then naviage the roof and finish in the in dihedral. Trad climbers often find this to be an easier route. This route has gotten harder due to holds breaking and being shot off by rednecks. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Logan Slideshow Add Photo
Looking across the Cache Valley to the Wellsvilles from near the mouth of Logan Canyon.
Looking across the Cache Valley to the Wellsvilles...
Lost Bolt 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Lost Bolt 5.7
fun trad climb, rigth of the huge overhang climbs. bring standard rack up to #3 cam. whatch out for the spidy webs.
fun trad climb, rigth of the huge overhang climbs....
Preston Pinnacle
BETA PHOTO: Preston Pinnacle
fucoidal quartzite as seen from the road at mile marker 470.5
BETA PHOTO: fucoidal quartzite as seen from the road at mile m...
<a href='/v/mullein-land/107159348'>Mullein Land</a> as seen from the road, right before <a href='/v/kentucky-fried-penguin/105739440'>Kentucky Fried Penguin</a> around mile marker 468.7.
BETA PHOTO: Mullein Land as seen from the road, right before ...
<a href='/v/rodent-ranch/106593859'>Rodent Ranch</a>,<a href='/v/wall-of-jericho/107194808'>Wall of Jericho</a>, Dodge city, <a href='/v/the-betagraph/106030487'>The Betagraph</a>, <a href='/v/cliffs-of-insanity/106455546'>Cliffs of Insanity</a> and <a href='/v/utopia/106835318'>Utopia</a>
BETA PHOTO: Rodent Ranch,Wall of Jericho, Dodge city, [[1060304...
Second Practice Wall, near second dam. A Great place to take beginners
BETA PHOTO: Second Practice Wall, near second dam. A Great pla...
the approach to 5.8 wall. the picture taken from the Cache forest sign, near the mouth of Logan Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: the approach to 5.8 wall. the picture taken from t...
area 385 as seen from the road, Mile markers changed so it's now at 472. Crag in the sky is also pictured
BETA PHOTO: area 385 as seen from the road, Mile markers chang...
at Mile Marker 463.1 there's First Practice Wall, Monkey Wrench Buttress and up a steep hike are the solar caves
BETA PHOTO: at Mile Marker 463.1 there's First Practice Wall, ...
The view from 5.8 wall looking out onto the valley
The view from 5.8 wall looking out onto the valley
upper and lower solar caves.  Park at First practice wall, hike up to monkey wrench buttress and keep heading up canyon and up  the talus slope.
BETA PHOTO: upper and lower solar caves. Park at First practi...
<a href='/v/china-wall/105739662'>China Wall</a>
BETA PHOTO: China Wall
Comments on Logan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 4, 2005

This is the old guide. The new guide has around 600 climbs (twice as much) and is avilble at nuclimbing.com

By James Garrett
Jun 26, 2008

Logan Canyon is awesome and so many good routes and potential for so many new ones. I just visited the Muelline Wall Area for the first time, and as I hadn't even known about it before the current new guide, was wondering if this is in fact a "new area". One concern, though, to those doing the developing.
1. What is with the swingset gauge chain for the anchors?
2. How many inches of bolt are actually in the rock after being threaded through the piles of chain and washers?
3. My partner and I felt many anchors looked unsafe and the chain is just too thin on almost all of the routes up there and elsewhere? We didn't lower either, just rapped.
But certainly, all in all,.........great climbing you people up in Logan have...and keep up the good work scoping out such spectacular lines....more multi-pitch!!!! I love climbing to the tops of those beautiful limestone aretes and buttresses up in Logan!

By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Apr 24, 2011

www.safeclimbing.org/education/bomberbolts.htm

Evaluate bolts in Logan Canyon with caution. There are a few routes that should be avoided until bolts are replaced.