|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Chris Miller, May 2000|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Jul 27, 2010|
|Comments on Lodestone||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Clif Clap
Jul 30, 2013
|I went up initially going for Black Bart but after getting thoroughly confused by the slab finished left and bagged a red point. Climbing to the ledge is really fun but the arete is sort of dull and puts you in a bit of no man's land at the top. I clipped on Golden Nugget's anchors - rapping off to clean the route was a little tricky but worked fine enough.|
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I found the beginning of this route to go harder than 10b for sure, the slab and pulling the lip goes around 10a but the top eases significantly down to 8 or 9 on the arete.
I ended up clipping the anchor for Black Bart on account of a guided group of thirty setting up permanent residence on the anchor the route was intended to go to. I find it kind of ridiculous that 4 routes are supposed to share a singular anchor point but I suppose its just the shape of the rock that lends itself to that. Not that big a deal.
Anyway, going to the right anchor was quite delicate and off route which would have made for an interesting fall, but when my buddy did it he just went up over the top then walked to it which puts you sitting right at it.