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Medlicott Dome, Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lighter Side, The S 
Loco Yokel T 
Scorpion T 
Super Chicken T 
Wailing Wall T 
Yawn, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Loco Yokel 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Barnes, Wuhmann 2007
Season: Gets afternoon sun
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 27, 2014

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Loco Yokel 5.10d another great route.

2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This two pitch climb is another great modern route by the FA team, sure to be a future classic as it cleans up with more attention.

Pitch 1: Wander up about 40 feet of easy blocky terrain and fishish with 80 feet of sustained, excellent liebacking right up to the bolted belay. 5.10d ~120 feet.

Pitch 2: Crux face past two bolts near the belay leads to super fun, large golden knobs and five more bolts to another bolted belay. 5.10b ~120 feet.

Rap the route a single 60 meter rappel to the ground with two ropes or two 30 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope, a single 60 meter rope would be sketchy.

Location 

Just left of Super Chicken, starts behind a large pine close to the wall.

Protection 

Bolts and gear set of stoppers, set of small cams, one set of cams to 3" (blue camelot), extra thin to finger size. Both pitches end at bolted rap anchors.


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