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Locksmith Dihedral
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 11
votes
Routes in Gatekeeper Wall
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Gatekeeper Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2- |
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Locksmith Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - April 2005. FFA Mike Anderson in 2007 |
| Page Views: | 4,551 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
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Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
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Description
The Locksmith Dihedral follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.
The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.
The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. There are no anchors here...you'll need to walk West to the Gatekeeper Crack and rap that route. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.
There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the Gatekeeper Crack.
The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.
The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. There are no anchors here...you'll need to walk West to the Gatekeeper Crack and rap that route. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.
There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the Gatekeeper Crack.
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