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Gatekeeper Wall
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Gatekeeper Crack T 
Locksmith Dihedral T 

Locksmith Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 750', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - April 2005. FFA Mike Anderson in 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring & Fall
Page Views: 2,068
Submitted By: bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Looking down from the belay atop the crux.

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


The Locksmith Dihedral follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.

The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.

The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.

There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the Gatekeeper Crack.


See photo


  • One #0 TCU
  • Three #1 TCU
  • Four #2 TCU
  • Three #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Three #2 Camalot
  • Three #3 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • One #5 Camalot
  • Nuts
  • 60m ropes

Photos of Locksmith Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Locksmith Dihedral follows the left line
BETA PHOTO: Locksmith Dihedral follows the left line
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: The stellar 2nd pitch dihedral.
The stellar 2nd pitch dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the P1 crux, which is pulling a sm...
Looking down at the P1 crux, which is pulling a sm...

Comments on Locksmith Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 1, 2009

I give this 4 stars for the first four pitches. This makes a great half-day outing of consistent 5.11 climbing with a short 12- crux.
By eric whewell
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 11, 2014

Great climbing on the first 4 pitches. The crux section involves pulling through a wide roof, its physical but short. A #6 camalot was great to have. Rack beta on here was pretty good. Could likely do it with 1 less 3 and 4 camalot. The rap anchors don't have chains so consider bringing some extra cord or webbing to back up or remove the old stuff.

We approached via the Watchman Trail and then bushwacked and side-hilled over to the Gatekeeper Wall. We descended the wash directly below. In the future I would approach via our descent route, up the wash straight to the base of the wall.
By Sgregory
Oct 29, 2014

Great route!(First 4 pitches) #6 for crux. Approached via Wash below the buttress. This was fairly straightforward wash-eneering.
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Jul 6, 2015

great route... anchor on the first pitch had a 1 for 1 bolt replacement and steel hardware was added. All rap anchors have steel hardware now. be aware that if you are rapping with 2 60M's, it will look like you can rap from P2 (base of the OW) to the ground. Our 60M was dangerously short, bring a 70M.

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