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Locks of Dread 
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Wasp Whisperer 

Locks of Dread 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006
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A shot showing the tops of Locks of Dread and the ...

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One of the original 5.12s at the Waterfall! Start at thin hands crack through steep blocky rock. A section of vertical fingers follows until the crack tightens down at a very important rest stance.

From here, try and find some very small wires/RPs. The bouldery, cryptic, and powerful crux on side pulls and gas pockets will test you mentally and physically. A pumpy finish adds flavor to this classic recipe.


Shares a staging area with Barbarian Rising,and Tainted Love which is characterised by large jagged boulders and sycamores.


Double set of small to medium cams,+wires, +small wires for the crux.

Photos of Locks of Dread Slideshow Add Photo
The Locks... is on the Right.  Barbarian Rising is on the left out the roof.
The Locks... is on the Right. Barbarian Rising is...
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Crux is quite sequential. Make sure you scope it out carefully at the no-hands rest before launching into it. I was not able to clean my stopper that protected the crux sequence which will make onsight attempts a whole lot more pleasurable. There is a huge difference in difficulty between onsighting and flashing this route. Seemed more like straight 5.12 than 12- to me.