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Locks of Dread 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer
Page Views: 888
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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A shot showing the tops of Locks of Dread and the ...


One of the original 5.12s at the Waterfall! This all natural gear line, starts in a thin hands crack through steep blocky rock. A section of vertical fingers follows until the crack tightens down at a very important rest stance.

From here, try and find some very small wires/RPs. The bouldery, cryptic, and powerful crux on side pulls and gas pockets will test you mentally and physically. A pumpy finish adds flavor to this classic recipe.


Shares a staging area with Barbarian Rising,and Tainted Love which is characterised by large jagged boulders and sycamores.


Double set of small to medium cams,+wires, +small wires for the crux.

Photos of Locks of Dread Slideshow Add Photo
The Locks... is on the Right.  Barbarian Rising is...
The Locks... is on the Right. Barbarian Rising is...

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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Crux is quite sequential. Make sure you scope it out carefully at the no-hands rest before launching into it. I was not able to clean my stopper that protected the crux sequence which will make onsight attempts a whole lot more pleasurable. There is a huge difference in difficulty between onsighting and flashing this route. Seemed more like straight 5.12 than 12- to me.
By Casey Niggemyer
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 11, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

a large selection of small brass stoppers and an optional blue slider nut made this one feel safe and reasonable. One of the better lines for the grade that I've gotten on at the waterfall.
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