Locks of Dread
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One of the original 5.12s at the Waterfall! Start at thin hands crack through steep blocky rock. A section of vertical fingers follows until the crack tightens down at a very important rest stance. From here, expect to try and find very small wires/RPs. The bouldery, cryptic, and powerful crux on side pulls and gas pockets will test you mentally and physically. A pumpy finish adds flavor to this classic recipe.
Shares a staging area with Barbarian Rising,and Tainted Love which is characterised by large jagged boulders and sycamores.
Double set of small to medium cams,+wires, +small wires for the crux.
The Locks... is on the Right. Barbarian Rising is...
|Comments on Locks of Dread
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
Crux is quite sequential. Make sure you scope it out carefully at the no-hands rest before launching into it. I was not able to clean my stopper that protected the crux sequence which will make onsight attempts a whole lot more pleasurable. There is a huge difference in difficulty between onsighting and flashing this route. Seemed more like straight 5.12 than 12- to me.