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Lockhart Basin is an empty expanse nestled between the Colorado River and the Wingate cliffs. This is area is actually quite close in to Moab, yet feels very remote. It seems to fall between the cracks. The cracks of Indian Creek and Kane Creek that is. It is the area east of the Colorado River, visible from the White Rim Trail. A great viewpoint is the Needles Overlook (accessed and saignposted from the main road south out of Moab). The area is a sixties time-warp, it has seen much impact from the grazing and mining industries, and virtually none from any of the modern outdoor industries. There is a small smattering of towers here, nestled up against the Wingate cliffs. They are hard to see, difficult to get to, and seldom climbed. See Eric Bjornstad's desert Rock IV for more details on these. The rock is as good as it gets. There is a never-ending supply of Indian Creek quality Wingate here, for crack climbers who are happy slogging up and down endless dusty talus slopes all day.
Access is either rappel from Needles Overlook or somewhere else along the rim, via 4WD road over Hurrah Pass at the south end of the Kane creek area, or (easiest) by easy dirt road north from Indian Creek; take the road past Hamburger Rock camping area (just past the Six-shooters), and head north. Bring lots of supplies.
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Regular Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b A1 UT : Moab Area : ... : Trisstin's Tower
The route on Trisstin's Tower ascends the perpetually shady backside. There is a description in Bjornstad's Desert Rock IV. As promised, it is superb, on absolute perfect Wingate. However, it goes mostly clean, and will certainlygo fully clean after just a handful more nailing ascents. I used just four pin placements; two Toucans on pitch one and the same two on pitch two, in both cases where the crack was too damn thin for #1 RPs to fit. I tried hand-placing Toucans, but they di...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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