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The Gym
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VHS or Beta S 

Lockdown 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,195
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Located two routes to the left of Spontaneous Combustion. This stellar route is identified by five new hangers that climbs the obvious swell bulge and links up to the unknown route from the left. Climb a short vertical face and over the bulge using monodoigts and deadpoints to shallow pockets gaining access to larger pockets and easier terrain. Continue on perfect rock up the long panel on older hangers to a small bulge and a new set of anchors. 9 clips + 2 anchors, 90 feet.


Protection 

9 clips + 2 anchors, 90 feet.



Comments on Lockdown Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Feb 26, 2007

Another great Gym route, Bob!

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
May 23, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is a great route with a hard bouldery crux at bolts 2-4. I thought the crux moves by themselves would be a V5 boulder problem. The rest of the route is about 11b/c. I think this route warrants the 12c grade. Grades aside, the route is a classic and should get climbed more.

By slim
Administrator
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I really liked this route. Easy climbing up to about the 4th bolt, then one or 2 really hard moves, followed by endless fun 9/10a climbing. You will want to be properly warmed up for the crux as it is pretty tendon intensive.