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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aja T 
Colors S 
Drain Pipe T 
Gasoline Alley T,S 
Jousting with a Jackal T,S 
Lock Buster T 
Monkey Business T,S 
Over the Rainbow S 
Scarecrow T 
Scareflow TR 

Lock Buster 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Hoffman, Gene Drake, and Karl Hammer in 1979
Season: Spring and fall are the best times.
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: urs on Aug 14, 2008  with updates from newfarmer

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Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the odvious corner crack on the very left side of the wall which is a fun warm up for the more harder routes.

Location 

This is the very first route on the very left side. It is the odvious corner crack bellow and to the left of the roof.

Protection 

Pro to 2". The only fixed anchor that can be accessed for this climb is the anchor at the top of the climb “Jousting with the Jackal”. If you are climbing "Lock Buster" you can get to these fixed anchors by continuing up the seam and continue up to the top of “Jousting with the Jackal” (12a). You can establish a trad anchor at the top of “Lock Buster” if you move to climber's left to a substantial ledge where it is possible to set a belay on thin gear. From there you can walk off, or if feeling insecure, can do a mini traverse pitch to flatter ground.


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By newfarmer
Oct 19, 2015

Just climbed Lockbuster and there are no bolted anchors at the top. If you continue up the seam to the anchors this route become Jousting with the Jackal(12a). I believe that Lockbuster escapes climber's left onto a substantial ledge where it is possible to set a belay on thin gear. From there you can walk off, or if feeling insecure can do a mini traverse pitch to flatter ground.
By John Robinson
Administrator
From: Elk Grove, ca
Oct 27, 2015

newfarmer: Hopefully I fixed the problem you describe in the "Protection" section of this route. Thanks for the info.

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