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Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? 
Crystal Meth 
Free Strike Zone 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim 
L of Lochluster 
M5? hand crack 
Mixed Feelings 
Mo' Flo' Than Go 
R of Lochluster 
Replicant (unnamed) 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) 
Rock, Wood, Ice 



Type:  Trad, Ice
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: late fall, winter
Page Views: 1,661
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2006
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The line is the obvious swath of thin ice cleared ...


This is a moderate line that can be led on the R side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. It can be used to set up TR's for the thin climbs to the R. Inviting, but often thin, this frequently packs more of a mental punch than you might expect for a WI3. In fat conditions, it may be WI2+.

Previously, I had incorrectly labelled a line to the L as Lochluster; however, closer reading of the topo of Gillett's excellent guide suggests this is the line.

Find this line as the most moderate of the far R side of the cliff with a clearly-less-than-vertical ramp going up to a protuberant rock block. Dig out snow to find where the ice exists on this line. Be gentle with the ice as often it is quite thin here. Find fatter ice for screws and gain a stance below the final corner. Ice often peters out here. Move R onto a ledge and traverse R to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel. 60ft.


Definitely bring stubbies (3-4), 1 medium screw.

Toprope Protection 

Slings off 2 bolt anchor with a directional screw? above.

Photos of Lochluster Slideshow Add Photo
Laura starting Lochluster
Laura starting Lochluster
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By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 12, 2007
rating: WI3-

A fun easy climb to warm up on. I liked the route just to the right of this one a lot more, it was more vertical and took a bit more technique.