Wham, Zowie, and Sharkstooth as seen from the Wham...
This is an organizational entry to help clean up the database.
The cliffs bordering the east and north sides of Thatchtop offer the most consistent, accessible and greatest variety of ice climbs in the park. Low angle slabs, thin mixed climbs, free-hanging icicles, top roping and pure ice falls abound here. This is also the most crowded area in the park, and it is not uncommon to see 15-25 parties in the area when the ice is "in". Classic routes are everywhere: Mixed Feelings gives you the chance to try dry-tooling to a free hanging pillar is a fairly safe environment; the Curtains are a perfect top-rope area. If you're lucky, the Glacier Knobs right above the parking lot, will have some long thin smears coming down, and you'll save the hike AND entertain the tourists. Some of these have been entered under World Cup Wall
by Greg Sievers
Farther up the valley, above timberline, you'll find more routes on Thatchtop (Necrophilia has to be the best mixed climb in its category), the permanent snowfields of Powell-Thatchtop (summer routes), the fine mixed routes on Powell, like the Vanquished, routes on Mt. Taylor, possibly routes in the Cathedral Spires area (?), routes on the Cathedral Wall, and routes just above Loch Vale. These are listed under the Loch Vale & uphill section, for now.
From the eastern side of RMNP, drive up the Bear Lake Rd to Glacier Gorge's parking lot, about 1 mile short of its terminus. From here, hike uphill about 0.3 miles. Go left to the 2nd bridge. At this point, you have 3 choices. Efficiency is likely determined by how much snow & which trails have been stomped down. The climber's trails go after the 2nd bridge either at the bottom of the drainage (sometimes the deepest snow, sometimes the best ski) or the along the left side of the drainage, climbing to as much as 100' above its bottom on a summer trail. The longest trail goes along the widest summer trail past Alberta Falls (typically buried in snow, at most WI1) to junction of the trail that splits towards Mill's Lake & Glacier Gorge. The climber's trails join here. Follow the signs towards Loch Vale. For Loch Vale Gorge, hike the trail until you get to a tight switchback, then drop down & left. For climbs Loch Vale & above, continue up the summer trail to Loch Vale & beyond!
Weather station 9.5 miles from here
58 Total Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Loch Vale & vicinity
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loch Vale & vicinity:
Featured Route For Loch Vale & vicinity
Vanquished (Powell Peak)
WI5 M5 CO
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Loch Vale & uphill
Four or five pitches of excellent mixed climbing on thin slabs, steep faces, corners and chimneys. We climbed the route in spring as many guidebooks describe as the best season, however I've run into folks who say its better in the fall.Pitch 1- Climb up thin ice on a low angle face. Belay at a large flake wrapped with webbing. WI5 M5 190ftPitch 2 – Climb easy mixed terrain then a large left facing corner of 85 deg. Ice. Belay in an alcove below a vertical chimney. WI4 M3 160ftPitch 3 – Clim...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Loch Vale & vicinity
Latest Regional Forum Messages
East Face of Taylor Mtm taken from Arrowhead summi...
By Rodney Ley
Nov 29, 2009
Visited Loch Vale ice flows on Saturday, November 28. Not in on right side or Mixed Feelings (almost nothing touching the ground--if you climb it please be gentle). Mo Flo Than Go was in about 50% of max, a little water here and there, okay spot for two teams who cooperate (thanks guys from Golden). Needs a little more freezing and fattening.