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Loch Vale & uphill

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alaskarado 
Brain Freeze 
Central Buttress T 
Circling Sharks T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Production, The T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Wham Couloir T 
Womb with a View T 
Unsorted Routes:

Loch Vale & uphill 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,000'
Location: 40.29451, -105.65776 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 153,757
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2006
Forecast:
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Postholing across the Loch.

Description 

This is a prominent, lower-altitude peak in the Glacier Gorge/Loch Vale vicinity. Given that the routes on this peak are distinct from the lower routes in character and length, we'll create a separate area for this to include the multi-pitch ice/mixed routes for clarity.

All Mixed Up & its neighbors are approached from the left or Mills Lake or southeast side of Thatchtop and are left in the Glacier Gorge area. The Loch Vale Gorge routes near Mixed Feelings are separate and left in the Loch Vale Gorge section. Northwest Face, Deep Freeze, Necrophilia, Vanquished, Womb With a View, The Crypt & their neighbors are approached from the right or Loch Vale or the NW side of Thatchtop. These last routes shall be listed here.

Depending on the snowpack, you may be able to approach these with or without flotation devices.

We could split this into Thatchtop - N side, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Loch Vale, & Cathedral Wall...perhaps.

Thatchtop:

Northwest Face, WI3+
Deep Freeze, WI6 M5 R
Necrophilia, WI5 M6
Dry Ice, WI5 M9
Broken Axes, WI5 M5

Powell Peak:

Vanquished, M6 WI5+
Northwest Buttress of Powell, M6
Thatchtop-Powell Icefield
North Gully

Taylor Peak:

Taylor Glacier
Taylor Glacier Buttress
New Sensations
South Face
South Ridge
Quicksilver
Unnamed Route, M5? WI5?
Central Buttress, 5.8 M5 WI5
East Face Right
Far Right Gully
Left Gully

Cathedral Spires:

no info coughed up, yet

Cathedral Wall:

Womb With A View, M6 WI5
Tunnel Vision, M6?

Loch Vale:

The Crypt, WI4
Freezer Burn WI4
Cold Storage, WI4


Getting There 

Go to the Beaver Meadows entrance to RMNP at the W end of US 36. Go through the entrance. Shortly after the entrance, you turn L on to the Bear Lake Rd. Go to the Glacier Gorge parking area (about 1mi shy of Bear Lake). Park. Hike about 3mi in to the ice taking the climber shortcut up the L side of the drainage after the 2nd bridge. Get to the junction of the trail to Mills Lake (L) & Loch Vale (R). Pick your side. Continue to hike.


Link to Cathedral Wall rock 

Link.


32 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loch Vale & uphill:
Central Buttress   WI5 M6 Steep Snow R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 11 pitches, 1200'   
Necrophilia   WI4-5 M5-6 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
The Crypt   WI4     Trad, Ice   
Timberline Falls   WI3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 100'   
Freezer Burn   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wham Couloir   M4 Easy Snow     Trad, Mixed, Snow, 3 pitches, 800'   
Quicksilver   M3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Mixed, Snow, 1000'   
Deep Freeze   WI5-6 M5 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully?   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 5 pitches   
The Petit Gully   M5+     Trad, Mixed, 6 pitches, 800'   
Taylor Glacier        Trad, 1200'   
Brain Freeze   M5+ Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in Loch Vale & uphill

Featured Route For Loch Vale & uphill
Early morning sun on the south face of Otis Peak showing the route Brain Freeze, with sections hidden by Zowie.

Brain Freeze M5+ Steep Snow  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & uphill
Brain Freeze climbs a series of gullies, corners and roofs up the right side of the Solar Wall on the south face of Otis Peak, directly behind Zowie. The route follows the first 300 feet of the Standard Route on the Solar Wall, then breaks up and left to follow a parallel gully system on the steeper face above.The middle section of the route offers continuously difficult climbing up narrow chutes, steep chimneys and overhanging chockstone cruxes. Belay caves form below the two chockstone cruxe...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of Loch Vale & uphill Slideshow Add Photo
Zowie in the foreground. From left to right, Cathedral Wall, The Saber, Sharkstooth, and Mount Taylor. The Vanquished Buttress and Powell Peak are visible in the background.
Zowie in the foreground. From left to right, Cathe...
Comments on Loch Vale & uphill Add Comment
Show which comments
By Thomas Jensen
Apr 25, 2004

Alpine climbers ALERT: Don't put the tools away just yet! Ice is dripping from everything and there will be more if current conditions persist. Get up to Cathedral Wall area and get creative. Was up in Womb with a View on Saturday 4/24 with Greg Sievers and found good ice and potential routes all over the place. Crypt is still big, as well as a long stairstep route just west of it. Might be a few weeks until North facing routes catch up but there is plenty of new potential on the south facing walls. Just get there early because we were getting showered all day with debris from above. Trail is packed, but bring floatation if you plan to get the the base of anything.

By Edward Corder II
May 10, 2004

I climbed an ice route to the right of Womb with a View about a week ago. It was six pitches of outstanding mixed climbing, the best ice I have ever done in the park. Has anyone heard of this line ever being completed?, if so please let me know. 1,000ft, WI4+, M5.

By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Jan 30, 2007

ADMIN: You guys have a long list of climbs under the description of this area. I just added 'Cold Storage' and 'Freezer Burn' (w/ pictures!), so you can add a link to these pages now if you'd like. Just FYI. Cheers! Eds. It was to hopefully inspire others to contribute. It worked! Thanks!