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Loch Vale & uphill

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Buttress T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Womb with a View T 

Loch Vale & uphill Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,000'
Location: 40.29451, -105.65776 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 173,911
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2006
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This is a prominent, lower-altitude peak in the Glacier Gorge/Loch Vale vicinity. Given that the routes on this peak are distinct from the lower routes in character and length, we'll create a separate area for this to include the multi-pitch ice/mixed routes for clarity.

All Mixed Up & its neighbors are approached from the left or Mills Lake or southeast side of Thatchtop and are left in the Glacier Gorge area. The Loch Vale Gorge routes near Mixed Feelings are separate and left in the Loch Vale Gorge section. Northwest Face, Deep Freeze, Necrophilia, Vanquished, Womb With a View, The Crypt & their neighbors are approached from the right or Loch Vale or the NW side of Thatchtop. These last routes shall be listed here.

Depending on the snowpack, you may be able to approach these with or without flotation devices.

We could split this into Thatchtop - N side, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Loch Vale, & Cathedral Wall...perhaps.


Sex With A Live Person, 5 M4, 1p, 200',
Northwest Face, WI3+, 3p, 600'.
Leftist Activity, WI5 M7, 1p, 100'.
Deep Freeze, WI6 M5 R.
Dry Ice, WI5 M9, 1p.
Necrophilia, WI5 M6, 1-2p, 200'.
Upper Wall, WI5 M5 X, 5p.
Broken Axes, WI5 M5

Double Tap, WI3 M5, 3p, 400'.

Powell Peak:

Plan D, M5, 2p, 350'.
Dirty Peeps Variation, M6 PG-13, 2p.
The Inquisition, IV M6, 4p, 550'.
Vanquished, M6 WI5+, 5p.
North Face Icefield, steep snow/alpine ice, 1000'.
Northwest Buttress of Powell, M6, 4p, 600'.
Thatchtop-Powell Icefield
North Gully, M4, 3p, 1000'.

Taylor Peak:

Taylor Glacier, steep snow, 1200'.
Taylor Glacier Buttress
New Sensations
South Face
South Ridge
Quicksilver, III M3+ steep snow, 1000'.
Unnamed Route, M5? WI5?
Central Buttress, III 5.8 M5 WI5, 11p, 1200'.
East Face Right
Far Right Gully
Left Gully

Alaskarado, III M5, 4p, 800'.

Cathedral Spires:

The Petit Gully, III M5, 6p, 800'.
Prise de Fer, IV 5.7 M5+, 6p, 800'.
Dog House, III M5+, 5p, 600'.

Cathedral Wall:

Womb With A View, M6 WI5, 5p, 800'.
Tunnel Vision, M6, 5p, 800'.
Sublime Vision IV M7-8, 6p, 800'.

Below Cathedral Wall:

Timberline Falls, WI3, 2p, 100'.

Out right up the Andrews Creek Drainage

Click here for that subarea.

Loch Vale:

Freezer Burn, WI4, 1p, 60'.
Cold Storage, WI4, 1p, 40'.
The Crypt, WI4, 1p, 100'.

Getting There 

Go to the Beaver Meadows entrance to RMNP at the W end of US 36. Go through the entrance. Shortly after the entrance, you turn L on to the Bear Lake Rd. Go to the Glacier Gorge parking area (about 1mi shy of Bear Lake). Park. Hike about 3mi in to the ice taking the climber shortcut up the L side of the drainage after the 2nd bridge. Get to the junction of the trail to Mills Lake (L) & Loch Vale (R). Pick your side. Continue to hike.

Link to Cathedral Wall rock 


Climbing Season

Weather station 9.5 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Loch Vale & uphill:
Necrophilia   WI4-5 M5-6 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
Central Buttress   WI5 M6 Steep Snow R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 11 pitches, 1200'   
Timberline Falls   WI3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 100'   
Freezer Burn   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Crypt   WI4     Trad, Ice   
Quicksilver   M3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Mixed, Snow, 1000'   
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully?   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 5 pitches   
The Petit Gully   M5+     Trad, Mixed, 6 pitches, 800'   
Taylor Glacier        Trad, 1200'   
Deep Freeze   WI5-6 M5 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Loch Vale & uphill

Featured Route For Loch Vale & uphill
Rock Climbing Photo: Quicksilver Route, Taylor Peak

Quicksilver M3+ Mod. Snow R  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & uphill
Begin at the very highest point of the snowfield and climb a couple pitches trending left toward the ridge. Traverse back right and into a bowl. Trend left then follow the obvious relief toward the upper bowl and skyline notch.Frozen Spring conditions may be best. Ken Younge & I did it in early April 2002. We were several hours late and post-holed in knee deep slush. Styrofoam type frozen snow would be ideal....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Loch Vale & uphill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zowie in the foreground. From left to right, Cathe...
Zowie in the foreground. From left to right, Cathe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the Loch, the snowshoe trail had diverg...
Just below the Loch, the snowshoe trail had diverg...

Comments on Loch Vale & uphill Add Comment
Show which comments
By Thomas Jensen
Apr 25, 2004
Alpine climbers ALERT: Don't put the tools away just yet! Ice is dripping from everything and there will be more if current conditions persist. Get up to Cathedral Wall area and get creative. Was up in Womb with a View on Saturday 4/24 with Greg Sievers and found good ice and potential routes all over the place. Crypt is still big, as well as a long stairstep route just west of it. Might be a few weeks until North facing routes catch up but there is plenty of new potential on the south facing walls. Just get there early because we were getting showered all day with debris from above. Trail is packed, but bring floatation if you plan to get the the base of anything.
By Edward Corder II
May 10, 2004
I climbed an ice route to the right of Womb with a View about a week ago. It was six pitches of outstanding mixed climbing, the best ice I have ever done in the park. Has anyone heard of this line ever being completed?, if so please let me know. 1,000ft, WI4+, M5.
By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Jan 30, 2007
ADMIN: You guys have a long list of climbs under the description of this area. I just added 'Cold Storage' and 'Freezer Burn' (w/ pictures!), so you can add a link to these pages now if you'd like. Just FYI. Cheers! Eds. It was to hopefully inspire others to contribute. It worked! Thanks!

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