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Loch Lomond
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Corner Area 
Hump Area 

Loch Lomond 


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Elevation: 10,500'
Lat, Long: 39.8328, -105.6771 Map
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Kyle Douglass on Oct 27, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Loch Lomond as viewed from the back of the cirque.

Description 

This area is a nice cirque just west of the town of Alice and St. Mary's Glacier. I have been here a number of times, and it tends to be a secluded area, and most anyone who goes there is there for hiking; I have never seen any climbers, but despite that there is a large abundance of bouldering and single-pitch and multipitch climbs to be done. The rock is pretty sharp and can be rough on the hands. Due to the area being new and in the alpine, it is wise to watch out for rocks.


Getting There 

Take I-70 west to exit 238 (Fall River Road, St. Mary's/Alice), the first exit past the town of Idaho Springs. Go north, and follow this (Fall River Road) up past two sets of switchbacks and then a bit farther into the town of Alice. Go left on Alice Road, a dirt road, and follow this to the top of the hill. On the right there will be a gnarly little four-wheel-drive road called Stewart Road, and a sign stating the distance to Loch Lomond. Since I don't have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, I have walked this road numerous times, but it is highly recommended to drive this road if at all possible. Follow the road until it ends a lake, Loch Lomond. On the south side of the lake there is a trail headed up to three other lakes, and the cirque of Loch Lomond.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loch Lomond:
Marmot Dihedral   5.7     Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Corner Area
Marmot Arete   5.9-     Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Corner Area
Browse More Classics in Loch Lomond

Featured Route For Loch Lomond
Jeff Hovart on the crux.

Over the Hump V1+  CO : Idaho Springs : ... : Hump Area
It is in the channel created by the main hump and the smaller on with the bouldering route 'Camel Hump' on it....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Loch Lomond Slideshow Add Photo
Loch Lomond. James Peak on the south side of the cirque; Mt. Bancroft on the north.

BETA PHOTO: Loch Lomond. James Peak on the south side of the c...

Mt. Bancroft

BETA PHOTO: Mt. Bancroft

One of the boulders at Loch Lomond.  This one is covered with graffiti but the sides where the climbing looks decent are clean.  The flared crack on this side is pretty nice.  The crack goes at about V1. Taken with my Blackberry.  Poor quality, I know.

BETA PHOTO: One of the boulders at Loch Lomond. This one is c...

Thin fingers on the graffiti strewn boulder close to the lake.  You can't miss this Boulder.  Finger crack goes at approx V1 until you reach the top out, which is V4th class. :-)  There is no walk off.  Downclimb the boulder.

Thin fingers on the graffiti strewn boulder close ...

As you approach Loch Lomond, you will pass this boulder on your right.  The problems I did were all in the V0 range.  Water surrounds parts of the boulder where harder problems exist.

As you approach Loch Lomond, you will pass this bo...