|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson|
|Submitted By:||chinos on Jun 11, 2012|
|Comments on Locals Only||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012
|The second pitch of this route is one of Longstack's better offerings. The climbing at the crux is somewhat bold, if you can't onsight 5.10 this pitch is not for you.|
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I found the first pitch of this to be quite good.
Nice slab moves at the beginning and end of the pitch. There was a sweet flake and fun roof problem as well. It's possible (although a bit reachy) to pull the roof right at the bolt.
My only complaint from this being a classic pitch is the dirty scramble on the tree ledge after the initial slab. There is also some suspect rock in this section just below the roof, although it's easily avoided.
Can't comment on the second pitch as I've only done the rampage variation so far.