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Local Ice Ethic
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By atrau
Dec 2, 2010

Hey guys down in the Utah Valley area;

I went and played around on Cascade yesterday and took a look at the ice around the area: The Fang, Bridalviel, etc. and consider relatively young and and didn't want to climb it and beat it out. It my experience that beating out early season ice tends to screw it up a little for others as it matures. I have climbed in the winter in Provo Canyon for a few years, I did sharpen my teeth in Rock Canyon, Cascade, Timp, and Af; I want to know what the local ethic is on climbing early ice?

Thanks guys,

Rob


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 2, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

atrau wrote:
I want to know what the local ethic is on climbing early ice?


The "local" ethic is to gang siege it on TR with a party of 30.

Cheers!


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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Dec 2, 2010
mountain sunset

Did somebody say party!


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Dec 3, 2010

I love it when the ice is all picked out with steps up the routes. That way I can claim to climb at least two grades harder and in half the time.


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By paintrain
Dec 3, 2010
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero

The local ethic is first come first serve.

The earlier and thinner you climb it, the more props from the Bros. Also, it is that much sooner you can start internet spragging.

This is then the green light for the TR frat party.

PT


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 3, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Allen Sanderson wrote:
I love it when the ice is all picked out with steps up the routes. That way I can claim to climb at least two grades harder and in half the time.




Community service!


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 3, 2010
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

You have to get on it while it is there. Was out today and stuff in Provo is falling down or melting it was so warm. Don't bother hiking to millers or the finger...
Dallen


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By Aaron M
From Westminster, CO
Dec 3, 2010
Me

Its funny 'cause it true!!


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By atrau
Dec 3, 2010

Well, I guess I will start destroying the ice when it comes in.

Rob


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By paintrain
Dec 3, 2010
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero

I like it when I don't even have to use my ice tools. Get out the Dachstein mits and paw up it.

What was great about the day that pict was taken, I was even drafting off of ice screw holes. That's Luxury Ice.

PT


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By jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Dec 3, 2010
my better side

To Sunny-D's point

Soft 'n Juicy 2010-12-03 RIP
Soft 'n Juicy 2010-12-03 RIP


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By England
From ?
Dec 3, 2010
Alpine toothpick.

Brian in SLC wrote:
The "local" ethic is to gang siege it on TR with a party of 30. Cheers!


Hey, that's how we roll here in CO too.


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 3, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

jtwalter wrote:
To Sunny-D's point


That's the warm side of the road, though.

Show us Stairway/Bridelveil!


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2010
Bocan

England wrote:
Hey, that's how we roll here in CO too.


Of course making sure NOT to give a leader preference by throwing down a rope on them and ALWAYS use the walk up.


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By jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Dec 3, 2010
my better side

Brian in SLC wrote:
Show us Stairway/Bridelveil!


Sorry, no can do. Didn't take any pics on that side. Water was running pretty well on that side and the ice was rather soft, but climbable. Check with Clay Bourne about how the conditions were on Stairway.


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 3, 2010
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Brian,
This morning you could climb up through pitch three on the stairway without any problem. Pitch four had a nice big transition from small pillar to over the lip- would have been really tricky- if it stays warm I bet the small pillar on pitch four falls down in the next couple of days. Pitch five looked really anemic and had a ton of rock showing at the top-think really, really spicy( you will be climbing tools on rock). I bet it falls over and takes care of the gang/siege top ropers on the apron tomorrow. Hopfully we get some colder conditions before the pillars fall, to recement them to the rock up high so we don't have to wait for them to form again.
The best ice in the canyon right now is in the Bridal Veil area, all the climbs there are in and are holding their form well. If I were going down in the next couple of days I would climb white nightmare bridal veil right and left. Maybe upper bridal veil as well.
Dallen


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 3, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

'Preciate the head's up!


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Dec 3, 2010

paintrain wrote:
I like it when I don't even have to use my ice tools. Get out the Dachstein mits and paw up it. What was great about the day that pict was taken, I was even drafting off of ice screw holes. That's Luxury Ice. PT


More than once I have climbed the bottom 2 pitches of the GWIC sans tools. Never tried the upper pitches sans tools mostly cause I was soloing. For some reason it really disturbs folks - of course bum sliding down those same pitches seems to equally disturb them as well.


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 4, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

GWI has been done sans tools (Tom A., I seem to recall). Too funny.

Yeah, its a sloppy mess right now. Too warm. We sussed out the first pitch at dark tonight. Open water on every pitch visible. Holes, thin, warm ice. Too too warm out.

The most reasonable trail in seem to be to park on the side of the road, well to the right of the white line to avoid a ticket, and, just down canyon from the currently still closed parking lot. Just downstream from the snow covered tree laying across the creek, is a nice, beatout path. Works no problem.

Let's hope it gets a bit colder!

Take care if you go. Not sure the ice is good enough to hold a hard fall onto a screw.


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