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Local Ice Ethic
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Dec 2, 2010
Hey guys down in the Utah Valley area;

I went and played around on Cascade yesterday and took a look at the ice around the area: The Fang, Bridalviel, etc. and consider relatively young and and didn't want to climb it and beat it out. It my experience that beating out early season ice tends to screw it up a little for others as it matures. I have climbed in the winter in Provo Canyon for a few years, I did sharpen my teeth in Rock Canyon, Cascade, Timp, and Af; I want to know what the local ethic is on climbing early ice?

Thanks guys,

Rob
atrau
Joined Jun 26, 2007
15 points
Dec 2, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
atrau wrote:
I want to know what the local ethic is on climbing early ice?


The "local" ethic is to gang siege it on TR with a party of 30.

Cheers!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 2, 2010
mountain sunset
Did somebody say party! Rob Man
From SLC UT
Joined Oct 24, 2005
44 points
Dec 3, 2010
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
I love it when the ice is all picked out with steps up the routes. That way I can claim to climb at least two grades harder and in half the time. Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,132 points
Dec 3, 2010
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero
The local ethic is first come first serve.

The earlier and thinner you climb it, the more props from the Bros. Also, it is that much sooner you can start internet spragging.

This is then the green light for the TR frat party.

PT
paintrain
Joined Jan 22, 2007
86 points
Dec 3, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Allen Sanderson wrote:
I love it when the ice is all picked out with steps up the routes. That way I can claim to climb at least two grades harder and in half the time.




Community service!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 3, 2010
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
You have to get on it while it is there. Was out today and stuff in Provo is falling down or melting it was so warm. Don't bother hiking to millers or the finger...
Dallen
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Dec 3, 2010
Me
Its funny 'cause it true!! Aaron M
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 31, 2007
141 points
Dec 3, 2010
Well, I guess I will start destroying the ice when it comes in.

Rob
atrau
Joined Jun 26, 2007
15 points
Dec 3, 2010
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero
I like it when I don't even have to use my ice tools. Get out the Dachstein mits and paw up it.

What was great about the day that pict was taken, I was even drafting off of ice screw holes. That's Luxury Ice.

PT
paintrain
Joined Jan 22, 2007
86 points
Dec 3, 2010
my better side
To Sunny-D's point
Soft 'n Juicy 2010-12-03 RIP
Soft 'n Juicy 2010-12-03 RIP
jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Joined Jun 28, 2006
844 points
Dec 3, 2010
Alpine toothpick.
Brian in SLC wrote:
The "local" ethic is to gang siege it on TR with a party of 30. Cheers!


Hey, that's how we roll here in CO too.
England
From ?
Joined Aug 26, 2008
281 points
Dec 3, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
jtwalter wrote:
To Sunny-D's point


That's the warm side of the road, though.

Show us Stairway/Bridelveil!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 3, 2010
Bocan
England wrote:
Hey, that's how we roll here in CO too.


Of course making sure NOT to give a leader preference by throwing down a rope on them and ALWAYS use the walk up.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Dec 3, 2010
my better side
Brian in SLC wrote:
Show us Stairway/Bridelveil!


Sorry, no can do. Didn't take any pics on that side. Water was running pretty well on that side and the ice was rather soft, but climbable. Check with Clay Bourne about how the conditions were on Stairway.
jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Joined Jun 28, 2006
844 points
Dec 3, 2010
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Brian,
This morning you could climb up through pitch three on the stairway without any problem. Pitch four had a nice big transition from small pillar to over the lip- would have been really tricky- if it stays warm I bet the small pillar on pitch four falls down in the next couple of days. Pitch five looked really anemic and had a ton of rock showing at the top-think really, really spicy( you will be climbing tools on rock). I bet it falls over and takes care of the gang/siege top ropers on the apron tomorrow. Hopfully we get some colder conditions before the pillars fall, to recement them to the rock up high so we don't have to wait for them to form again.
The best ice in the canyon right now is in the Bridal Veil area, all the climbs there are in and are holding their form well. If I were going down in the next couple of days I would climb white nightmare bridal veil right and left. Maybe upper bridal veil as well.
Dallen
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Dec 3, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
'Preciate the head's up! Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 3, 2010
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
paintrain wrote:
I like it when I don't even have to use my ice tools. Get out the Dachstein mits and paw up it. What was great about the day that pict was taken, I was even drafting off of ice screw holes. That's Luxury Ice. PT


More than once I have climbed the bottom 2 pitches of the GWIC sans tools. Never tried the upper pitches sans tools mostly cause I was soloing. For some reason it really disturbs folks - of course bum sliding down those same pitches seems to equally disturb them as well.
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,132 points
Dec 4, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
GWI has been done sans tools (Tom A., I seem to recall). Too funny.

Yeah, its a sloppy mess right now. Too warm. We sussed out the first pitch at dark tonight. Open water on every pitch visible. Holes, thin, warm ice. Too too warm out.

The most reasonable trail in seem to be to park on the side of the road, well to the right of the white line to avoid a ticket, and, just down canyon from the currently still closed parking lot. Just downstream from the snow covered tree laying across the creek, is a nice, beatout path. Works no problem.

Let's hope it gets a bit colder!

Take care if you go. Not sure the ice is good enough to hold a hard fall onto a screw.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points


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