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Creekside
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Local Hero 
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Local Hero 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, and Ken Cangi, 8/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,333
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: First bolt marked by the blue X on the right side ...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Local Hero is a mixed route that starts right above the creek, with fun slab climbing on the first pitch, and a neat roof and airy arete on the second pitch. It ascends the right side of the prominent pillar on the north face, finishing up just right of Showtime. This is one of the best routes on the crag; don't miss it!

Start at the base of Creekside, by a gully, just above the creek.

P1: Start up rock on the left side of the gully, then stem up the gully to the first bolt on the right wall. Clip the bolt and move onto the wall. Make some tricky moves (9+) past the second and third bolts. Continue up face and cracks and move left to a steeper headwall. Climb straight up from here to a ledge by a pine tree and a two-bolt anchor. 5.9+, 100'.

P2: Step right from the anchor onto an arete. Clip a bolt and move up to the right side of a roof. Traverse left above the roof to a slab. Climb the slab (fun moves!) past three more bolts to a small roof with a hand crack. Get pro in the crack (#1 or #2 Camalot), step up and clip a bolt above the roof, and crank over the lip (10a; easier if you're tall). Continue up face and cracks, heading toward the arete on the right. Climb the arete to the top of the pinnacle, and a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Border Crossing and The B Boys). 5.10a, 110'.

Descent: Rappel 95' straight down to the anchor on The B Boys. Rappel 110' from here to the gully at the start. A 60m rope works with a little bit of easy downclimbing.


Location 

At the gully at the base area of Creekside.


Protection 

P1: 5 bolts and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.



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By Tombo
From: Boulder
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun route, not over bolted and for the most part bolts are where you want them. Light rack of stoppers and one each of gold Alien to #2 Camolot is all that is needed to lace up.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A few bolts where gear was an option, but mostly right on. Actually, the route is decently protected by bolts alone, as the gear moves are not difficult. Do take a few long slings for clips that are not in-lin or are below a roof. The 3 stars is reflective of the length of the route done as a single 60M pitch and the exposure up top. It is the top half of this one that earns its stars- the bottom is sort of discontinuous.

By Dave Miller
From: Boulder
Sep 30, 2010

Did this line yesterday for a the first time.
Overbolted seems to be the norm for this crag.
Nice route, creative line.